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Trad, Aid, 800 ft, 6 pitches,
Avg: 2.7 from 3
FA: Larry DeAngelo, Karsten Duncan - Aug 5, 2007
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rock
> 12-Oak Creek Ca…
> Cactus Flower T…
> Blood Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
This route has some scrumptious chocolate rock and great climbing. Unfortunately, a short but challenging roof of rotten rock guards its upper treasures. The pitch above the chimney is the best 5.9 OW in Red Rock. Perhaps when the bolt ban is lifted we can find a more docile way to access this grand pitch. Still this route has great position and is a beautiful line.
Pitch 1 5.7 100ft Move up the varied chimney to where the chimney opens up and a wedged boulder makes a nice stance. It may be beneficial to move the belay deep into the chimney for the next pitch.
Pitch 2 5.9 C1 120ft Move back deep into the gaping chasm and then climb up the chimney placing a large cam as high as possible near the lip. Drop back down and out of the chimney. Do several awkward aid moves through the rotten roof. Continue up excellent rock another 60ft of 5.9 OW to just below a wide spot in the crack.
Pitch 3 5.9 190ft Chimney up the edge of the cave opening. When it squeezes down, move up the beautiful OW crack to just below a small roof. Belay off of medium to small cams and nuts.
Pitch 4 5.8 200ft Continue up and left, taking a hand crack above (shares with Seppuku). Continue up the crack until you reach a good sized ledge with a slung boulder.
Pitch 5 5.9 80ft Walk back from the face to another small white rock wall with a right angling crack on the face. Climb the angling crack and continue up it as it turns vertical. Belay on ledge.
Pitch 6 4th class 100ft Continue to make your way up and generally rightward to the top.
Approach: Hike up Oak Creek past solar slab and Black Orpheus. Pass the blood wall on your left. Once past the blood wall start looking for a 4th class access out of the creek bed. You should see a large deep dihedral up and to the left as you head up out of the creek bed. Move up the slabs generally heading leftward until you get to the base of the wall above. Traverse this wall to the left (eastward) until you see a large red wall with two prominent crack lines in it. The right wide chimney system is your climb.
Descent: From the summit ridge walk right, going down slabs keeping near the lip of the cliff on the right. Follow cairns down a canyon (generally staying high). This canyon will eventually empty into Oak Creek canyon proper.
Another option is to skip the last two pitches and do 3 double rope rappels down seppuku's fixed anchors. Bring extra webbing as you may need to replace them.
A usual rack of double to #6 camalot with maybe triples in the 3-4 inch range. Adjustable daisies for the aid section. All anchors are natural.