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Flakey Nine
5.9+,
Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.4 from 18
votes
FA: ???
New Mexico
> Los Alamos & Wh…
> White Rock
> Playground
Description
The initial part of this climb ascends a thin flake for the first 15 feet (crux). Gain the ledge and go left up a finger crack to a small roof. Turn the roof to the left or the right. This route is easily rigged for TR from the top.
[If you know the "real name" for this climb, post up. -Admin]
Location
Approximately 15 feet to the left of
Blow Hole.
Protection
1 set wired stoppers, 1 set cams up to a #1 Camalot. A bolted anchor for Flakey Nine is down on the big ledge. Long slings or some static line is useful for this anchor as it's setback a bit from the edge.
![Getting ready to move around to the right of the roof at the top of the route.]()
[Hide Photo] Getting ready to move around to the right of the roof at the top of the route.
![At the crux of the route just above the cool thin flakes. April 2009.]()
[Hide Photo] At the crux of the route just above the cool thin flakes. April 2009.
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Reno, NV
Gear through the crux opening twenty feet is a bit tricky. TCUs, link cams, or big stuff (#4/#5) protect this reasonably well. I've heard small nuts get the job done as well. Anyways, it's there, you just need to be creative.
Maybe a little easier than Upper Left Roof, but more fun IMO. Apr 12, 2009