Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Gary Hicks, Jay Stagnone, 26 March 1974|
|Page Views:||426 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Bill Lawry on Jan 19, 2008|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
- P1: A short pitch leading over blocks up the SE ridge. Probably more than one way to go. Watch for one or two loose suitcase-sized blocks. We ended the pitch at a cozy horizontal platform somewhat sunk between surrounding rock and perhaps slightly on the east side of the SE ridge. Perhaps this pitch could be combined with P2?
- P2: Climb ~20 feet back up to the ridge top and drop a little down to the left before traversing up and left to the south face "amphitheatre" and significant exposure (not just exposure to the tram). Finish the traverse at a ledge with a microwave-sized boulder and belay.
- P3, 5.7+, ~100 feet (shared with Diagonal route); mantle up; then a one or two-move lie-back at the crux (or somewhat painful jam betwixt crystals); then, easy finger traverse for several feet to the right on slab; then up past a chock-stone; just above the chockstone, trend left and up, passing to the left of a healthy tree; the belay behind the tree includes a single piton plus gear; probably a good idea to extend the belay to the cliff edge to improve communications as the running tram is noisy for long periods of time.
Finish with a ~150 foot scramble to summit, first heading to the right from the belay; 3rd and 5.low the way we did it. Other options exist.