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Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 343 total, 3/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 19, 2008 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Yet another fun moderate route on this cliff...One climber suggests:"Nice pitch lot of good holds, follow the crack, go around the corner then keep left until you reach a possible belay spot; jump on the arete over the pin and follow it. Airy, beautiful view.".

Pitch 1: climb the first pitch of Right Side Route... Up the nice corner and off-width crack to the belay on the low angle slab...

Pitch 2: Climb down a little from the belay and head out left then up the moderate arete, and on to the top... [ see comments below, some think harder than 5.5]


Start as for Right Side route... Then from the belay head a little down and out left...


Regular rack...


- No Photos -
Gotta do the arete move! It's a 1 move wonder but it's soooo good and airy. The pro is right at the move and you can double or triple up if you don't feel so secure about the move and the slab beneath it. The arete move puts the 2nd pitch into 5.7 range. Jul 27, 2016
Sam J
Sam J  
I agree with travis, if you take the P2 topout from the bush it is 5.5 but if you go straight over the exposed bulge it is more 5.7. Great exposure on the bulge topout Apr 17, 2016
Travis Dustin
Hollis, NH
Travis Dustin   Hollis, NH
We thought the 2nd pitch climbing up the arete was more like 5.7. There was options through some shrubs that would probably keep it at 5.5 but didn't look as fun Nov 16, 2015