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Routes in Main Walls

Call it "41a" T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Acid Reign T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Arrowhead T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Block of Ages T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cat-o-Nine-Tails T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Catapult T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Catatonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chimney-Top Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Claw Marks T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Danzig TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Elegant Monkey T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Feline T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Mate T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friday the Thirteenth T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Book T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Imperial Wizard TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaguar TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Millions of Dead Dogs TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mind Bender Direct T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pegasus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pink Elephants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Realm of the Senses T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saturday Night Special T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Triple Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
White Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: FA(toprope): Ken Nichols, March 1986
Page Views: 1,267 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jim O'Brien on Jan 16, 2008
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best face climbs around, sustained powerfull climb with not so great rests. Crux is getting to the overlap and pulling through. Great movement, figuring out the sequence is the fun of it all.

Location

Blankish face to the left of Danzing, fingers are small and somewhat crimpy, fun project to test your limits. IW follows the line up the center of this face, to the left of the ice in the crack. The crux is at the right facing flake just under the small roof, pull through, step left and continue up the obvious line to the top, if you've got the juice.

Protection

TR set up is good with gear. No fixed anchors.

Photos

T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
Just paint some pretend bolts on the face and do some make believe clipping. Nobody chops paintjobs in CT. Apr 7, 2013
Leif  
I like leading face climbs. Just sayin. Apr 7, 2013
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Looks like a great line to add some bolts... Feb 28, 2012
Clint Cummins
Palo Alto, CA
Clint Cummins   Palo Alto, CA
FA(toprope): Ken Nichols, March 1986 May 4, 2009