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Routes in Gold Bar Tower

Au-Spice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Fort Knox T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Face 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Type: Aid, 120 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,205 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Jan 15, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route climbs up thin cracks in a corner for 40' to where the corner opens to a face. Climb a crack in the face to two bolts. From the second bolt hand traverse right 10' on manky rock to a mantel onto a small ledge.(5.7+) Climb the splitter hand crack that slowly widens to the top of the tower. Build an anchor with creativity.
To descend find the anchor at the top of Fort Knox and scramble down to it. (When Matt and I did this I wedged myself in a crack and he rappelled to the anchor off of me)

Protection

Standard Desert Rack, Small to mid sized cams with extra 2 and 3 camalots for the final splitter crack. One 4 old camalot for the final moves to the summit. 2 Ropes to rappel Fort Knox.

Photos

J. Hickok  
 
Worth doing! Seemed to me like my partner's lead ascent was maybe 5.10 C1?? Mar 8, 2012
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8 C1+ R
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8 C1+ R
Good route that deserves more traffic. The manky traverse is scary, loose, and committing. It is certainly no giveaway at 5.7+. A new style 5 camalot is helpful for building an anchor on the summit, and extras in red and yellow alien are nice for the first half of the route. The down climb to the anchors on Fort Knox isn't bad, though falling would be a catastrophe so you should have a belay. You can also rap Fort Knox with one 70 meter rope. Another bolt at the rap anchor would be welcome. Jan 31, 2011