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Routes in Lizard's Landing-East Formation

Bighorn Bivy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bone Club, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Canine Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ewe Stretch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Criminals T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard's Landing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mimo Provoz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sheep Scat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Teeter Totter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: B. Allen, M. Wilson, S Waggoner, A. Bartlett - '91
Page Views: 606 total, 5/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Jan 14, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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What it be:

An interesting varied route on pretty good rock (for the area). One of the better in the area, IMHO.

Climb the broken slab up to a roof. Careful placement and extension as far out right as you can will pay off later when climbing questionable patinas and looking down at the thin wire you placed as your last piece. Traverse right under the roof until you get to a break formed by a finger crack. Follow that up and over, into a slight dihedral. Right about the time the protection opportunities wear out pull right onto the arĂȘte and head up patinas to the anchor.

Where it be:

Head up the rocky gulley on the south side of the formation. Start at the broken slab that leads to a very obvious roof.

How it be:

Standard rack to 3 inches. Medium gear for the anchor, and/or a long sling for a boulder. You can rap from the anchors to your left.

Photos

Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
topside anchor gear placements or slingable blocks about 10 ft back from the edge. rap via the bolted rap anchor atop Sheep Scat to climber's left, which is about 85 ft down to gully plus easy downscramble Mar 6, 2015