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Routes in Lizard's Landing-East Formation

Bighorn Bivy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bone Club, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Canine Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ewe Stretch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Criminals T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard's Landing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mimo Provoz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sheep Scat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Teeter Totter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Craig Fry, Lynn Hill - '79
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Jan 14, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A short, left-leaning, less than vertical, wide crack to small chimney. An ok route if in the area.

The crux is at the bottom establishing yourself in the crack until you eventually are able to get your left hand on the arête. The crack widens here to just over a #4, and the angle eases a bit. There’s some loose rock sitting on the first ledge you pull onto so be careful. After that make the final moves to a big ledge under a boulder and set your anchor amidst large quantities of bird crap. Pretty much sums up the route. There are rap anchors further right.

Location

The route starts on a small ledge towards the top on the western face of the Eastern Formation. You can see the prominent crack as you hike in to the area. You can either climb up Mimo Provoz, or scramble up the rocks to the right of it to get to the start. Leave your packs towards the bottom of the scramble, you can rap back to this point.

Protection

Medium to large (#3 could work, #4 is better) for the route. There are ample opportunities for the anchor but an easily accessable thin finger crack in good rock is simple and convenient. Rap anchors are further right around the boulder.

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