North East Face, Regular Route
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British WI2 Mod. Snow
Type: | Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3100 ft (939 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | ? 1960's |
Page Views: | 7,606 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | bsmoot on Jan 10, 2008 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Description
This was a popular alpine jaunt in the 70's for aspiring alpinists . The climbing is quite moderate, and if you're confident you won't need to rope up much. If you climb this in the dead of winter, plan on a FULL DAY, because of deep snow in places. If you can time it during a cold spell in early Spring, you'll be front-pointing up the frozen snow, then you could summit before noon...these are ideal conditions and the climbing is CLASSIC!
From Stairs gulch, ascend steep snow gullies, mixed with ice and rock for 2,500' to a notch leading to the upper face. Ascend the face for 5 or 6 pitches to the summit (9,524'). If you're not tired yet, you can follow the S.E. Ridge to the summit of Twin Peaks.
Warning: Beware of avalanche danger form Stairs Gulch
From Stairs gulch, ascend steep snow gullies, mixed with ice and rock for 2,500' to a notch leading to the upper face. Ascend the face for 5 or 6 pitches to the summit (9,524'). If you're not tired yet, you can follow the S.E. Ridge to the summit of Twin Peaks.
Warning: Beware of avalanche danger form Stairs Gulch
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