Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3100 ft (939 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: ? 1960's
Page Views: 5,975 total · 38/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Jan 10, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

This was a popular alpine jaunt in the 70's for aspiring alpinists . The climbing is quite moderate, and if you're confident you won't need to rope up much. If you climb this in the dead of winter, plan on a FULL DAY, because of deep snow in places. If you can time it during a cold spell in early Spring, you'll be front-pointing up the frozen snow, then you could summit before noon...these are ideal conditions and the climbing is CLASSIC!

From Stairs gulch, ascend steep snow gullies, mixed with ice and rock for 2,500' to a notch leading to the upper face. Ascend the face for 5 or 6 pitches to the summit (9,524'). If you're not tired yet, you can follow the S.E. Ridge to the summit of Twin Peaks.

Warning: Beware of avalanche danger form Stairs Gulch

Location

Ascends mostly steep snow couloirs left of the prominent right facing corner high on the face. Begin by hiking up Stairs Gulch. Follow gullies and the face near the top to the summit. Descend from the top by hiking South East a bit and then down a steep gully into Stairs Gulch.

Protection

Small rack, runners, 1 screw.

Photos