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Creaky Joints and Trigger Points

5.10b PG13, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 11 votes
FA: Dick Williams and Joe Bridges
New York > Gunks > Trapps > l. Sleepy Hollow

Description

Good little climb that is often overlooked. Almost immediately you feel in it. A must for thin face lovers!

Climb up into the small alcove that has a crack running out of it to the right. Follow the crack right until it ends and climb up the gripping face to a small stance and gear. Continue up and left to a stance below an overhang. Climb up any way you wish (try straight up for extra fun). Continue up easy climbing to the top of the block. From here, you can walk down, or continue up Casa Emilio.

Location

On the approach trail to Casa Emilio (yellow trail) you will see a clean face with a crack on your left just before the trail goes up and right.

Protection

Mostly small to mid-size stuff. Standard rack is plenty.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Super cool face climbing. Thought provoking right from the start with good gear (you get to place it comfortably and then go). Jun 9, 2010
Paul Madry
New York, NY
  5.10b PG13
[Hide Comment] Small gear abundant but if top piece pops, will you stop before the ledge? Probably.. Aug 20, 2013
Ryan Thomas
Brattleboro VT
[Hide Comment] maybe closer to 10c Oct 27, 2021