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Bombs Over Tripoli

5.12a/b, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 81 votes
FA: Dave Bingham 1984
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Parking Lot Rock > Parking Lot Rock - No…
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

First climbed by Dave Bingham in 1984 with only three bolts!! The route was retro-bolted in 1988. Begin by climbing a large juniper then stepping on to a thin technical face. Make a difficult move to a layback (crux) which gains a very thin insecure crack.

Location

The route is located on the northeast face of Parkinglot Rock. Look for bolts leading to a small seam. This route has great shade in the afternoon, making it an excellent choice for warm days.

Protection

8 draws to 2-bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Levi Call sending Bombs Over Tripoli in the rain. Photo by Fallon Rowe
[Hide Photo] Levi Call sending Bombs Over Tripoli in the rain. Photo by Fallon Rowe
Levi Call sending Bombs Over Tripoli in the rain. Photo by Fallon Rowe
[Hide Photo] Levi Call sending Bombs Over Tripoli in the rain. Photo by Fallon Rowe
Climber working the route
[Hide Photo] Climber working the route
Opening the weapons bay on Bombs Over Tripoli
[Hide Photo] Opening the weapons bay on Bombs Over Tripoli

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
 
[Hide Comment] Great route; the crack is incredibly insecure, with only a few good fingerlocks. The final traverse beneath the anchors definitely keeps it sustained as well. Difficult second clip. Sep 5, 2009
Alex Herbert
Bozeman, MT
[Hide Comment] Currently missing third bolt. It fell off as I was rapping down to clean it this weekend, I couldn't find the nut to replace it Oct 10, 2010
Ian Cavanaugh
Ketchum, ID
 
[Hide Comment] I was there a few weeks ago, and found the bolt was still missing. Try to stick-clip past it but, could not find a stick long enough. Talk to a ranger that day and informed him of the missing hanger. He said he would replace it the next day, but never had a chance to return and verify. Jul 20, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] the 2nd bolt is back. Jul 25, 2011
Ian Cavanaugh
Ketchum, ID
 
[Hide Comment] Thank You Brad!! Brad has just gone in and retro fitted this route!! after the third hanger went missing again last week, Brad and another ranger went to replace it. I believe (did not go verify with my own eyes) that they also replaced the anchors and a few other suspect bolts. should be ready to go. Jun 22, 2012
Kevin Volkening
[Hide Comment] As of 6/16/13 all bolts / hangers present. Get on it! Jun 17, 2013
R Walters
Sonora, CA
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Call me weak, but I was happy to have a yellow tcu between the ~6th and 7th bolts.
Hats off to Dave for establishing this thing in such bold style. Apr 17, 2017
Where's Walden
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] I brought the yellow tcu and placed it, but if I didn't have it with me I wouldnt have thought much of the bolt spacing anyway. I always used to think the climbing before and after the crack would just be filler. Boy was I wrong! I wish I could say I onsighted, but I had a single footslip while resting on good holds. And I felt so solid!!! Jun 17, 2017
michalm
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] This route has been fitted with durable lower off hardware courtesy of the ASCA. To support work like this donate today at safeclimbing.org

Original hardware that needs to be replaced includes 5x 3/8" plated Rawls and 1x 3/8" wedge bolts. 2x pro bolts and 1x anchor bolts appear to be replaced already. Also the 3rd pro bolt is difficult to clip and could be lower to eliminate risk of tree or ground fall. Oct 5, 2020
Dave Bingham
Hailey, ID
[Hide Comment] Most of the comments on this thread are outdated misinformation. The route has been completely re-bolted with glue-ins and has a muzzy anchor. May 1, 2024
CritConrad
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] I'm honestly a little surprised that I didn't see any comments mentioning that a fall getting to the 3rd bolt would put you 10-15' straight into the juniper tree at the base of this route. It's not just the brushy stuff either, it's healthy 3" diameter branches that would put a real damper on your day if you happen to collide with one. The stance to clip that bolt isn't the most secure and extending that bolt seems like it would make the clip much more pleasant. Sep 2, 2024
Casey Elliott
Reno, NV
 
[Hide Comment] If prepping the route for red pointing, it is possible to extend the third and double clip and to place a finger size piece or two if you want to decrease runouts. Considering it was climbed on gear initially the latter seems very reasonable. I would recommend stick clipping up to the third on your first go if you are concerned about taking a tree limb to the booty May 12, 2026