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Routes in Windy Point

Border Town Donkey Show S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caught in the Crotch Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Datura S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dispossessed, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Chicks on Pogo Sticks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hollywood on a Buck O' Five S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lesbian Knife Fight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Monkey Spank Mayhem S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 663 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jon Lauters on Jan 8, 2008
Admins: Bill McKirgan

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

The first 20 feet are the crux. Top out on a ledge. Route goes vertical to slab, clipping the 3rd bolt can be a little hairy.

Location

To the right of the main wall, Only bolted line on the face.

Protection

4 Bolts, Fixe anchors - There is a crack at the ledge that will take a tricam.

Photos

Mees
Iowa
Mees   Iowa
Another fixed route thanks to Joe and Troy. Surprised no one was maimed or killed considering all the loose blocks this route used to have on it all those years. Good rule of thumb for limestone sport climbs--> If you aren't going to clean it, don't bother bolting it. Sep 9, 2013
J. Stark
Iowa
  5.9
J. Stark   Iowa
  5.9
This route has been cleaned up and the bolts have been moved to safer placements right of the original line.

Trespass 2.0 - 6 bolts to rap ring anchors. Nov 10, 2012
Dan Roberts
Eastern Iowa
5.10a
Dan Roberts   Eastern Iowa
5.10a
One of the most fun climbs at P rocks. Worth the hike. Wouldn't worry about the 3rd bolt runout as there are a lot of good holds up to it.If your good enough to try it it should be pretty easy. Last week the climb seemed very clean and well bolted.If you clip the anchors as soon as you can reach them and calling that the end you have missed out on two more fun moves to finish the climb. ON par with other 10a routes at P Rocks. Nov 20, 2010
Jon Lauters
Boulder, Co
 
Jon Lauters   Boulder, Co
 
I have heard you can place some gear on this route in addition to clipping bolts. Guessing tricams in pockets. Mar 27, 2009
moss1956
5.9
moss1956  
5.9
This climb was named "Trespass" by its first ascender Katie Ives. The
named listed here is artificial and was placed on rc.com
during a bout of paranoia about access.

In my humble opinion, if you blew the clip at the third bolt bad enough it could be a ground fall. Luckily that part of the climb is slabby and less than vertical. The crux is between the first and second bolt.
After that, the climb is easy.

Also, the one time I climbed it I pulled off a piece of choss about the size of a softball that luckily missed my belayer
who was not wearing a helmet.

One more thing, Katie thought it was a 5.9, and I agree, except that I would call it a 5.9 R. Mar 26, 2008