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Routes in Chain Station

Bigcicle T WI4+
Chimney T WI3-4 M3
Columbine Falls T WI3 M4
Fatcicle T WI4
Gear Jammer WI5 M5
Grinch's Chimney M4
Honeymoon Gully T WI3 M4
Jake Break M5
Pencil-Neck Geek M4
Penny Slot M4
Snaggle Tooth M5
Sometimes a Great Notion WI5- M5
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 60 ft
FA: Jack Hunt
Page Views: 480 total, 4/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Jan 7, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is another fine moderate climb that my be an iced in chimney, a wet rock climb, or a little bit of both. The pro could be minimal which makes this a "heady" climb and not as physically technical. Although the technical crux resides about midway up, this can some times be rotten at the bottom also making it cruxy. A tricky warm up. This climb offers good access to the upper tiers.

Location

This route is the obvious choked up thin gully about 40 feet left of Bigcicle. Walk down climbers left or locate the Bigcicle 2 bolted chain anchors a ways off to the climbers right.

Protection

Ice screws, stoppers and small cams with some trad runners. There are questionable natural belay anchors at the top.

Photos

Jesse Morehouse
CO
  WI3 M4
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  WI3 M4
In 2010, with the permission of the FAer (Jack Hunt), I put in a bolted belay anchor on the right hand rock wall. Eliminates the dubious, tat-slung shrubbery. Dec 26, 2011