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Routes in Dum's Kitchen

Art and sport S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Don Quijote De La Mancha S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good Medicine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaidom S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Jumping For Jugs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lion King S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mai Mee Fahn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Name S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pahn Taa Lod aka Schlingel Moritz S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reminiscence S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remix Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rod Yak aka Schlingel Max S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sit Spins, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tiger Queen, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wake and Bake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Cyro Clad 12/92
Page Views: 2,410 total, 20/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jan 6, 2008
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

Fun steep double overhanging dihedral with a finger crack in the back. Start up making steep moves on jugs and underclings. Continue up the dihedral, making all kinds of cool stemming moves and finding some interesting rests. Crank out the laybacking top section and rest on the ledge. Rest up and make a few more tricky 11-? moves to the anchors.

First ascent was originally on trad gear and later retroed by accident. Also might be a bit soft for the grade.

Location

This is located in the forested area off the main beach. Nice place to catch shade when the rest of Dum's Kitchen and Tonsai wall are in the sun. It is also unaffected by the tide. Shares the first two bolts with Art and Sport. Between Art and Sport and By Way of Deception.

Protection

7 Bolts to anchors.

Photos

RJ Ryan
Cambridge, MA
  5.12a
RJ Ryan   Cambridge, MA
  5.12a
This is a great climb! A fight to the end.

But when we got to the end the anchor was quite a fright. 3-5 ratty threads joined together. Every single one's sheath had worn away in parts. We took a piece of chopped rope and beefed it up but this anchor really needs some love. Mar 11, 2014