Time Wave Zero
Sport, 2300 ft, 23 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.7 from 265
FA: Ed Wright, Dane Bass, Paul Irby, Jimmy Carse, Jon Robinson
> N America
> Northern Mexico
> Nuevo Leon
> El Potrero Chico
> Timewave Buttress
Time Wave Zero is one of the longest routes at El Potrero Chico. The route is about 2,300 feet and is listed as 23 pitches in the guidebook, although it is possible to climb in as few as 13 pitches with a 60m cord. All belay and rappel anchors are fixed, which allows for quick progress. The route tops out on the summit of El Toro and affords great views of the Potrero and the surrounding Sierra Madres. The single 12a pitch is easily aided if necessary, dropping the route grade to 5.11a A0.
Most will want to climb TWZ in a day, although there is a bivy ledge half way up if you choose to (or are forced to) spend the night.
A fixed line was in place as of 1/1/08 on the final last chossy pitch/scramble to summit
to the summit (pitch 23).
To descend, rap the route. Simul-rapping is highly recommended to save time. A single 60m rope will get you down, but be extremely careful, as several rappels are a FULL 30m. A 70m would provide a bit more peace of mind.
The route has been climbed in less than 2 hours.
"Timewave Zero" is a reference to the so-called "Novelty Theory" put forth by the psychedelic philosopher/ethnobotanist Terence McKenna (1946-2000). The theory attempts to plot the complexity (i.e., novelty) of the universe over time, producing a fractal waveform known as the "timewave zero". The theory has yet to gain much traction from the greater scientific community.
Pitch Ratings and Lengths
Pitches are as follows:
P1: 5.7, 100'
P2: 5.11a/b, 90'
P3: 5.9-, 100'
P4: 5.9-, 100'
P5: 5.10a, 100'
P6: 5.9-, 100+'
P7: 5.7, 50'
P8: easy scramble
P9: 5.9+, 100'
P10: 5.10b, 100'
P11: 5.9, 100'
P12: 5.7, 50'
P13: 5.8, 100'
P14: 5.9, 100'
P15: 5.9, 100'
P16: 5.10d, 100'
P17: 5.9+, 100'
P18: 5.9+, 100'
P19: 5.9+, 90'
P20: 5.10d, 90'
P21: 5.12a or A0, 90'
P22: 5.8, 100'
P23: 5.6, 100'
Hike past the Spires as for the Surf Bowl and Dihedrals. Just before reaching the Surf Bowl, locate a climber's trail to the right and follow for about 20' to the base of the route.
About 18 or so draws if linking pitches.
Bailey Crawford on her way down Time Wave Zero. 2.5 hour descent.
From the summit of Time Wave Zero.
Bailey Crawford on the 16th pitch of Time Wave Zero.
Don't let anyone tell you the summit is not worth it because of the last pitch. The pitch was easy and the summit not to be missed.
pitch 15 or something
View from the summit of El Toro
Marlene Itzayana walking the pitch 8, timewave zero
Time Wave Zero taken from the back of the Potrero. Follow the yellow brick road.
One of the first of 20-ish rappels.
No idea what pitch this is. Stellar route!
Arin Trook on Time Wave Zero, New Years Day 2008. The 3rd class (pitch 8) is visible below as a trail through the vegetation.