Type: Sport, 2300 ft (697 m), 23 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ed Wright, Dane Bass, Paul Irby, Jimmy Carse, Jon Robinson
Page Views: 126,099 total · 642/month
Shared By: Mike Morley on Jan 6, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Time Wave Zero is one of the most coveted routes in Potrero Chico and one of the longest sport climbs in the world.
It involves tons of moderate face climbing on jugs and big pockets with a few cruxes here and there. The route also includes some hanging belays, lots of sunshine and dealing with other parties. Most climbers do the route in a day with an average roundtrip time of about 12 hours, but there is a bivy ledge about half way up for those who want to take their time. 

Pitch Ratings and Lengths Suggest change

23 "official" pitches, none longer than ~100 ft (easy to link).


1) 5.7 100' 4bolts
2) 5.11a 95' 9 bolts. Short crux.
3) 5.9- 100' 8 bolts.
4) 5.9- 100' 7 bolts.
5) 5.10a 100' 8 bolts.
6) 5.9- 110' 9 bolts.
7) 5.7 45' 3 bolts.
8) 3rd class
9) 5.9+ 100' 10 bolts.
10) 5.10b 100' 9 bolts. Short crux
11) 5.9 100' 8 bolts.
12) 5.7 50' bivy ledge at the top of this pitch. Can link with 10 and 11 if partner simuls for ~20 ft and using a 70m
13) 5.8 100' 6 bolts.
14) 5.9 100' 6 bolts.
15) 5.9/10a 100' 9 bolts.
16) 5.10d 100' 9 bolts.. Short crux, felt easier than 10d
17) 5.9+ 100' 7 bolts.
18) 5.9+ 100' 8 bolts.
19) 5.9+ 90' 6 bolts.
20) 5.10d 90' 7 bolts. Harder and more sustained than previous 10d
21) 5.12a 90' 10 bolts. Stout for the grade, but easy to aid. The bolts in the crux are very closely spaced, and easily aidable. Next three bolts to the top are spaced further and require 11a-ish climbing.
22) 5.8 100' 7 bolts. Felt stiff, but that is probably the exhaustion talking!
23) 5.6 100' 6 bolts. Fixed line in place, but slightly damaged as of December, 2021. Use caution. This pitch is ledgey and probably shouldn't be linked with the previous.

(Grades, lengths and bolt counts compiled by Julie Wang.)

Location Suggest change

Hike past the Spires as for the Surf Bowl and Dihedrals. Just before reaching the Surf Bowl, locate a climber's trail to the right and follow for about 20' to the base of the route. TWZ is the left-most route on the buttress and is marked with a nameplate. 

Protection Suggest change

About 18 or so draws if linking pitches.

Descent Suggest change

Rappel the route.

Do not attempt to walk-off this route. There is no trail to the true El Toro summit. Attempting to walk off would involve 4th and 5th class unprotected scrambling on poor quality rock and a long cactus bushwhack and is not recommended. Below the ridges exist many other routes and a dislodged block would endanger climbers below.

Photos

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