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Routes in Scorpion Slab

Melting Bits S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Satisfaction Guaranteed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Scorpion Slab S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Scorpios Make Great Lovers S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tarantula S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ben Folsom and Maura Hahnenberger Sept. 2007
Page Views: 2,186 total, 18/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Jan 5, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is getting off the ground, then climb up past eight? bolts to a two bolt & chain anchor on the summit of the formation.

Location

If you park at the corral south of the main Ibex area, walk north under some crags and then west up the hill to the base of a nice looking, wall. Approach takes about 5 minutes. There are two routes on the slab, an easier 5.6? which is bolted to the left, and Scorpion Slab is on the right.

Protection

Quickdraws. An optional but not needed smaller cam (3/4") can be used near the top.

Photos

D. Durrant
Utah, USA
D. Durrant   Utah, USA
I hooked up with Tim one day last October, and climbed a couple of routes he had just finished bolting on the right side of the slab. I remember the routes were slabby at the bottom with nice climbing through the middle portions. The right most route had a ledge just below the top where you could rest before you pulled the last couple of moves. I thought the climbing was fun and both routes seemed to be around 5.9. We also worked another of his projects just to the right of the Scorpion slab, but the thing was way out of my reach, and on that day it was out of Tim's. Jul 16, 2010
Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.9
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.9
Indeed indeed. Thanks for the route :) Mar 24, 2009
Ben Folsom  
 
seems easier (and safer than) The Fingertip Variation (5.8) in LCC, The Nutcracker (5.8) in Yosemite, Satans Corner (5.8) in LCC, North Chimney of Castleton (5.8+) etc... At least that's how it felt when we did it. Ratings are pretty subjective anyway, just a general guide to help people climb in the general difficulty range that they want. There are always surprises, good and bad days, etc... Nothing so subjective can be very accurate. Mar 23, 2009
Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.9
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.9
James' comment is spot-on. Getting off the ground is difficult and a little tricky with a spooky, sharp, boulder to break your fall. One section of 5.8 above with some moderate climbing above and between. Glad to see Tartantula to the left is rated 5.8...!... not the 5.6 shown on the photo topo. Mar 23, 2009