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Routes in Wild Iowa Wall

Atropine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bird in Hand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack to the right of Atropine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Gotz Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hungry to Do S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Kiss of the Prince S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Peek-a-boo TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soul Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Territorial Pissings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Virgin Lemonade S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wild Iowa S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 710 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jon Lauters on Jan 5, 2008
Admins: Bill McKirgan

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Description

Obvious crack that splits the face of Wild Iowa Wall. Sees little traffic.

Location

The crack coming from the cave between Hot Tomale on the left, and Hungry on the right.

Protection

Gear, If top roping, there are trees on top for anchor, or climb Hungry or Hot Tamale and use their anchors to top rope.

Photos

Adam Knutson
  5.10b
Adam Knutson  
  5.10b
I run out the beginning because it's easier to climb through the overhung section, and place pro from a solid stance on top of the flake. I clipped the bolt on the roof of Hot Tamale. Fun trad route! Nov 5, 2016
Crimp Shrimp  
 
Bill,

-You can start off with a small nut placed from the ground so it is "stick clipped".
-As you get to the flake a No. 1
-Directly under the over hang a full proof bomber no. 2 placement
-Right above the overhang you can place a sketchy no. 4, deep where it is constricting instead of flaring
-Middle point between over hang and roof gets you a bomber small nut placement (be careful not to lose your nut, its a very good placement) Aug 9, 2016
Bill McKirgan
Cedar Rapids, IA
Bill McKirgan   Cedar Rapids, IA  
Congratulations Ben. What kind of gear did you use for protecting yourself as you climbed to clip the anchors of the route to the left? Apr 29, 2016
This has the best jams in Iowa that I have felt. Do not TR this lead it and clip the chains on route just to the left. Protects beautifully. Apr 17, 2016