Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 792 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jon Lauters on Jan 5, 2008
Admins: J. Stark

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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Obvious crack that splits the face of Wild Iowa Wall. Sees little traffic.


The crack coming from the cave between Hot Tomale on the left, and Hungry on the right.


Gear, If top roping, there are trees on top for anchor, or climb Hungry or Hot Tamale and use their anchors to top rope.


This has the best jams in Iowa that I have felt. Do not TR this lead it and clip the chains on route just to the left. Protects beautifully. Apr 17, 2016
Bill McKirgan
Cedar Rapids, IA
Bill McKirgan   Cedar Rapids, IA
Congratulations Ben. What kind of gear did you use for protecting yourself as you climbed to clip the anchors of the route to the left? Apr 29, 2016
Matt Black
Davenport, IA
Matt Black   Davenport, IA

-You can start off with a small nut placed from the ground so it is "stick clipped".
-As you get to the flake a No. 1
-Directly under the over hang a full proof bomber no. 2 placement
-Right above the overhang you can place a sketchy no. 4, deep where it is constricting instead of flaring
-Middle point between over hang and roof gets you a bomber small nut placement (be careful not to lose your nut, its a very good placement) Aug 9, 2016
Adam Knutson
Adam Knutson  
I run out the beginning because it's easier to climb through the overhung section, and place pro from a solid stance on top of the flake. I clipped the bolt on the roof of Hot Tamale. Fun trad route! Nov 5, 2016