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Routes in Lower Freeway Wall

False False Smooth as Silk T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
False Smooth as Silk T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Planetary Motion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Silkworm T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smooth as Silk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Start Trundling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stop Grumbling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stop Trundling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thigh Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wilma Rubble T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tucker Tech, Todd Gordon and Tom Burke 12/99
Page Views: 629 total, 5/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jan 4, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb a fun, awkward start (face, stem) to a thin crack (right hand) below the first bolt. Protect the crack, then step up and clip the first bolt. Try to resist the A0 moves that follow. Get established in the shallow face bowl leading to the second bolt, clip that rig, then up. Fun!

Location

Right of Smooth As Silk, on South facing narrow buttress with two visible bolt anchors on a shallow concave face. Faces the road. Kind of at the last transition of the crag from SE to the SW end. Rappel from same sling nest anchor as Smooth As Silk.

Protection

Standard rack. Two bolts. I found a 00 TCU, a #2 TCU, a couple 1/2" cams, a small nut and a #1 Camalot particularly useful.

Photos

outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
Kind of a one-move wonder with that one move protected by a 1/4" rivet holding onto a 3/8" bolt hanger. The edge of the bolt head barely makes contact with the hanger. This is dangerous and I recommend not leading this route until the correct hardware is installed.

Easy to TR after Smooth as Silk, though. Mar 15, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
This mixed route takes gear down low then the two bolts as described. What isn't mentioned in the description is what happens higher, out of view from the ground. Unless you are finishing using the Smooth as Silk exit the crack gets wide, like 4-4.5" kinda wide. You've got some options in the flake to the left with smaller stuff like 1/2" just before it opens up but beyond that it's pretty big. Not knowing this detail left me running out the wide and hauling my largest piece (#2 Camalot) all the way to the summit.

Clipping the first bolt may be a problem for shorter folk. I'm 5.7 and reached it from the stance, now climbing beyond that bolt was much more challenging.

Great route, surprised I've never seen anyone on it. EVER.

Anchor today consisted of way too much webbing and a few superfluous biners just to add to the junk show. It's clean now with three sets of runners with various carbon dating but all with life left in them along with two rap rings. The rap appears to be problematic with a bush directly below the anchor. Not to worry, drop the line down climbers right (avoiding stacking rope in the flakes below) and rap what is basically the 5.9 route. Step back a few feet on the pull and it's clean with no hang ups. Dec 28, 2013