Type: Ice, 1200 ft (364 m), 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jonathan & Brian Smoot, Jim Knight, Bruce Rogaar in 1983
Page Views: 3,639 total · 21/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Jan 3, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Located in the Mt. Nebo Wilderness. Details

Description

P1 - A short, thin easy pitch leads to the main flow
P2 - Climb a steep, wide 70-80 degree pitch to a lower angle section above.
P3 - Gully ice and snow lead to a belay below a short vertical pillar.
P4 - Ascend the pillar and gully ice for a pitch.
P5-8 Climb 3-4 pitches of moderate snow, ice and rock to a ledge below a vertical smear of ice. There is one hard section, about pitch 6...a thinly iced corner/chimney.
P9 - Climb this short, thin, vertical section (crux) to the top.

Unfortunately this enjoyable climb only forms up in periods of wet weather. If the last pitch isn't in, the climb is a WI 3-4.

Location

This stepped ice flow descends from the North Facing buttress, about 1/2 mile up from the mouth of the canyon. Descend by rapping the route from trees, screws or V threads.

Edit: The first 5 pitches now have bolted rappels.

Protection

Screws, ice ax or snow stake

Photos