Avg: 3.2 from 11 votes
|Type:||Ice, 1200 ft (364 m), 9 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jonathan & Brian Smoot, Jim Knight, Bruce Rogaar in 1983|
|Page Views:||4,192 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||bsmoot on Jan 3, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
North Creek Canyon is entirely located within the Mount Nebo Wilderness. Wilderness rules apply (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).
P1 - A short, thin easy pitch leads to the main flow
P2 - Climb a steep, wide 70-80 degree pitch to a lower angle section above. Long pitch
P3 - Gully ice and snow lead to a belay below a short vertical pillar. Short pitch, you can combine P3 & P4 with a 60M rope
P4 - Ascend the pillar and gully ice for a pitch.
P5-8 Climb 3-4 pitches of moderate snow, ice and rock to a ledge below a vertical smear of ice. There is one hard section, about pitch 6...a thinly iced corner/chimney.
P9 - Climb this short, thin, vertical section (crux) to the top.
Unfortunately this enjoyable climb only forms up in periods of wet weather. If the last pitch isn't in, the climb is a WI 3-4.
This stepped ice flow descends from the North Facing buttress, about 1/2 mile up from the mouth of the canyon. Descend by rapping the route from trees, screws or V threads using 2 ropes.
Edit: The first 5 pitches now have bolted rappels.