Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Pot Holes Area

Ghost Dancer Spire T C1+
Type: Trad, Aid, 60 ft
FA: Paul Ross , Layne Potter, 8th Jan., 2002
Page Views: 4,645 total, 38/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jan 2, 2008
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Follow fix nails, tied off lumps and things. This could be free climbed.

Location

This is located high up the hillside opposite (east?) the Pot Hole Parking area. It requires about a 20-30 minute hike.

Protection

Tie offs, slings. Rope.
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Yes, it's fun. Nails are 8".... Quite a solid structure. Cheers Oct 25, 2016
I led this and as of October 23, 2016 the route was still reasonable to climb. Not knowing how long those nails are, it's hard to say how sketchy the climb actually was but they seemed fairly solid. They were all sticking out about an inch, inch and a half except the one just below the cap Rock which was about 3 or 4 inches, I tried to hammer it in but it didn't move. Someone said the nails are 8" and I hope that's true! The anchor on top is solid bolts. This climb is absolutely incredible and definitely one of a kind. Heady. Oct 24, 2016
Aided up this thing today. SUPER FUN!! Thank you for putting this up! My buddy climbed it on TR and called it 5.8 with a 5.9 move onto the capstone. It would be a VERY sketchy lead though. I was able to pull out one of the nails by hand (after I hung on it), but I tapped it back in pretty solid on my way down. It should be good for a day or two. Sep 16, 2012
Nick Broeder
Glenwood Springs, CO
  C1+
Nick Broeder   Glenwood Springs, CO
  C1+
Climbed this today, fun little dicy aid route on an awesome dirt tower. I definitely see this thing going free. The bigger rocks are pretty solid, and I felt pretty relaxed doing free moves out of my ladders all the way up. It might be scary, but it would be a bold free ascent for sure. The only part I see being a problem would be getting on and over the caprock; there could be a way though. If no one jumps on it, I might have to give it a shot...top two nails before the caprock need to be pounded in a bit, they are a bit loose, and the top nail before the caprock is showing about 4 inches and is very scary. I free climbed around it to reach the bomber bolt on the caprock. Nov 27, 2011
rmaultsby
grand junction, co
rmaultsby   grand junction, co
Climbed this Tuesday. Fun. Scary. Surprisingly solid.
Free/aid. Oct 13, 2011
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
You guys must have some great health insurance and wickedly expensive life insurance! May 15, 2010
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Go to it, lads...you're almost there. It is a LOT more solid than the Palisade piles of choss...sending a few more pics. P.S. the nails are 8" long. I did tie off at least one of the stones? Dec 2, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
Wow! This thing is wild! We finally got back out there and got to the base of it with enough time. Somehow I talked my friend Nathan into leading it as I figured he would get more out of the experience then I would. He found it to be a little tough and pretty intimidating. At about the 2/3 point, he was standing on a rock ledge that blew out on him, the nail that caught him was not so solid he said. Seemed he thought he could pull it out with his fingers! Also, you might want to be good at high stepping as it seemed a lot of nails were out of reach for him. He ended up lassoing most of them from lower in his ladders.

I'm going to have to come back and lead it, 'cause it's wicked!

So for C2 or 3 to be possible on this sort of thing I'm guessing you get 2 options, lasso protruding rocks and tie them off instead of putting in nails except where there is no other option, or the dirt has to be soft enough to make the nails suspect right? or a combo of both.

Good luck on a free ascent legs, it would be a horror show I would guess, but maybe after you top roped the piss out of it. Nov 22, 2009
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Any idea what it goes at free? Sep 11, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
I'll have to do that. It looks really awesome, why only 2 stars? May 14, 2009
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Quite solid...go have a look. Apr 26, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
So the nails are for protection? How big are they? No hangers, straight up pounded into dirt? This thing looks pretty sweet, but how solid is it? Apr 26, 2009