Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Friction Slab

Split Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turner Prize Tower, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Unnamed wide start right of split pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Waltz T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Y-Crack Simulator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Aid, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Ross Jeff Pheasent 4th march 2002
Page Views: 1,351 total, 11/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jan 2, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

P1)Starts at a crack on the east side. Up this to the gap and belay .60'5.8 P2)Move out onto the south side and some bolts lead up a slab to the summit. 50'

Location

This semi hidden tower (but visible from the road) is not on the Friction slab ,but this maybe the closest crag , The tower is on the other side of the road up a small canyon with a pull off on the left side of the road . The pull off at the head of the canyon is 1.8 miles passed Newspaper rock when driving into the creek. It takes only a few mins to walk to the tower from the road.

Protection

A few cams,quick draws

Photos

Patrick Betts
  5.8 C1
Patrick Betts  
  5.8 C1
Here is some better gear beta: Singles .3 to 4.0, 12 quick draws, aiders, and 10 or so hangers or nuts for slinging studs (they do have nuts and washer but were very difficult to turn by hand). Out of the 12 or so bolts only 2 had hangers (1 and 4?).

Fun and quick little tower! Mar 15, 2017
Bill Grasse
Carbondale, CO.
Bill Grasse   Carbondale, CO.
I like to call that "fr-aid" climbing... "free from the waist down." Not free, not aid but most likely afraid. Apr 26, 2011
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
You should see the bolt ladders in Rifle, and lots of smells....Here many climbers seem to practice aid climbing with sometimes bits of free in between bolts the only difference they do not use aiders.I also notice lots of aid climbing on the so called free crack climbing of Indian Creek. So aid climbing is still alive and well,more so among Sport climbers and the Sport/Trad crack climbing areas of Indian Creek. Jun 29, 2009
-mn
-mn  
bolt ladders arn't dead in the 21st century....they just smell funny..... Jan 14, 2009
Bill Grasse
Carbondale, CO.
Bill Grasse   Carbondale, CO.
Great tower to tic after a day at the creek. Super cruiser and fun. Lots of stoppers for hanger-less bolts. Mar 16, 2008