Arribas Ameobas
5.10+,
Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.4 from 34
votes
FA: Bob Kerry & Wit Wisniewski
Arizona
> Southern Arizona
> Cochise Stronghold
> E Stronghold
> Out-of-Towners…
> S Face of Out of Town…
Description
A good climb on good rock with some "Oh-My-God-I Can't-Possibly-Be-Standing-On-That" moves. The very top can be improved by finishing on the final face and roof of Out Of Towners (a vertical bolt line you will cross under) and skipping the easy finish around the tree.
P1: (140' 5.9+) Climb up the bolt line just right of the large arch, and just right of where a tree pinches to the wall. The crux of this pitch is in the middle third and is small holds and some friction, making this pitch a great warm-up for the crux pitch to come. You can't retreat easily with out 2 ropes, but it would be possible to pendulem over to lower anchors on another climb. Belay from a bolted anchor.
P2: (120' 5.10+) Up and right past a bolt, through a slightly harder move to bolt #2 at a bulge, then past a uber-thin crux to bolt #3. There are a few hard moves here and it is an insecure area. A fall could get somewhat long just before reaching bolt #3. Pay attention. Shortly after the 3rd bolt, the climbing mellows out and you pull onto good holds and work up and right past a crack, going to low-angle rock. Continue for 1/2 rope length (70M rope) and belay at a good stance.
P3: (5.9, 100' PG-13) Up and right you will see a large roof with the under-the-roof belay of Out Of Towners. That route is the more obvious at this point, continuing up just left of the end of the roof through light-colored rock. Look further left to see your pitch. Climb Left and then up and left past a few clips and some gear, passing some tricky moves through overlaps and cracks to reach an additional belay.
P4: (5.7 or 5.9+*, 100' or 80') Work out and right toward the base of a large tree groing from a crack. Climb below that and then turn uphill to the top of the wall. Or better yet, keep an eye out for a few bolts after about 10 to 15 meters of the easy rising traverse and climb up past those over two overlaps (crux, on big jugs for hands) to a bolted anchor at the top of the wall. This is great climbing on cleaner rock and is more challenging. It is the very top of the last pitch of Out Of Towners. Belay from bolted anchors.
Walk off as described on the Rock Page.
Location
The trail splits at a boulder prior to arriving at the base of Out Of Towners Dome, with the left hand brach leading closer to the start. From the left branch, walk left along the base until you find a left-leaning arch overhead, then come back to the next line of bolts to the right of that feature. This is the first pitch of Aribas Ameobas.
Protection
A light rack from .4" to 3" plus a dozen draws and some slings. The cruxes are bolted, but not the whole route.
Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2017.
[Hide Photo] Route Overlay of some of the popular routes on Out of Towners' Dome.
[Hide Photo] Ron Roach follows a long pitch of 'Aribas Ameobas' on the Out Of Towners Dome in Cochise. Photo by 12/24/07.
[Hide Photo] Guidebook said a 70 worked for the 1st rap, but our 70 was just short of the anchor. We ended up having to rap off a couple of single bolts.
[Hide Photo] Jeremy Bates on p1
Bend, OR
That's Bob Kerry and Wit Wisniewski if you look up the abbreviations.
I haven't done the climb but I can say that the approach is about as non-heinous as it gets in the stronghold. No big deal. Jan 9, 2010
Bend, OR
Portland, OR
Phoenix, AZ
Mexico City , Tucson, AZ
Hardware and tools are paid for by your donations, a grant from Access Fund & American Alpine Club, and support from Rocks & Ropes and The BLOC. Jul 11, 2018
Edmonton, AB
The tree that pinches the wall has fallen over since the description was written. Look for the fallen tree with the base touching the starting ledge. Feb 11, 2020
The route can be rapped from the top of P2 in 2 raps with an 80m rope. Only bring draws for P1 and draws + 1x hand sized piece with a sling for P2. Dec 29, 2021
Norman, OK