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Routes in (3) Video Bluff

Ace T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bikini S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Damaged Circuit TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
EZ Corner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Edge of Might S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eve of Destruction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flakey Old Man S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Live Wire S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Panes of Reality TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Robotics TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stained Glass T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stranger Than Friction S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 921 total, 8/month
Shared By: rl23455 on Jan 1, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

The crux seems to be moving off the slope and getting into the corner.

Location

Video Bluff, about the middle.

Protection

Anchors at top, keep it short to protect the top of the climb.

Photos

Jason Weinstein
Beaverton, Oregon
  5.9
Jason Weinstein   Beaverton, Oregon
  5.9
The crack looks inviting but don't be fooled. Do this once on TR if you want to climb a junky short lived crack that transitions to slick rock with moss and lichen. Or just skip it and be thankful you didn't have to climb this crappy route with a terrible finish. No pro after crack ends in middle of route, but plenty of slickness and blank rock. Jun 6, 2014
JesseT
Portland, OR
 
JesseT   Portland, OR
 
The first half of it takes gear OK (I did a mock lead on toprope). The problem is that the crux is high enough off of the last placement that a slip-up puts you in ground fall territory. Dec 29, 2011
Eric Jensen  
 
I agree, this route is pretty well protected with the 3 chain anchor. It doesn't really take protection, so I wouldn't recommend leading this.
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It's still wet on June 23rd. Jun 23, 2011
another Chad  
5.8+
I don't get it, where's the PG13 rating coming from? This is a top-rope only climb and one without any wild swings.

Chad Jan 29, 2011