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Routes in Cleopatra's Chair

NW Route (Cleopatra's Crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Craig Hughes and Karin Lee, 10/21/2001
Page Views: 220 total · 2/month
Shared By: John Evans on Dec 29, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A shallow ramp/corner with a crack for protection leads to an a couple insecure moves to gain a loose chimney. Once in the chimney, a stance is reached, and the climb is finished through a very short squeeze to the top of the pitch. From here unrope and work your way to the top of the Chair.

Location [Suggest Change]

Approach and park as for the SE Route, but hike around to the opposite side of the formation. Pretty much the only option anywhere over there.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard trad rack.


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John Evans  
First ascent by Craig Hughes and Karin Lee, 10/21/2001. Dec 29, 2007

More About NW Route (Cleopatra's Crack)