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Routes in American Fork Ice

Creamsickle, The WI5-6
Type: Ice, Alpine, 300 ft
FA: Jim Knight & Brian Smoot in 1983
Page Views: 1,181 total, 10/month
Shared By: Stymingersfink on Dec 28, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

The pillar of the Creamsickle is unmistakable for anything else, showing less frequently and for shorter periods of time than most other climbs in the Wasatch. Originally climbed twentyfive years ago on straight-tools...

Cruxes include: Crossing the stream, thin ice slabs and a steep vertical pillar. If you're not up to soloing WI3R, you'd better do this climb in two pitches... or perhaps hit Bridal Veil instead?

Above the thin smears, just at the base of the snow field below the pillar, on the west side: there is a two bolt anchor 190' above the start.

Above the pillar, move up past three icy steps to a two bolt anchor on the west side. Bring some sling to replace the tat hanging there. ~190' rap to the anchor mentioned above.

This pillar is shorter and more difficult than it appears from the road... MUCH more so.

Location

First route of distinction in the canyon. Less than 1/2 mile up the canyon from the guard shack, on the right hand side. Find the next turnout and park. Cross the creek, ascend the thin icy slabs to the base of the pillar, which you may find more of once above the pillar proper. Descend from tree above left of pillar, finish rapping the route.

Protection

Screws

Photos

RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
Watched this climb for years waiting for it to form (like from 1976). Hiked up a couple of times to find the final pillar unstable. Finally did it with Jason Jones and Brian Smoot around 2000. Pretty hard ice climb and may be a little dangerous. I have not seen it form much since then. The last several years - hardly a hint of the pillar forming.

If I remember right, we could not find any anchors and we chopped a 'bollard' for the rappel. I figured it was about a 50/50 chance of working. Jan 9, 2017
Thanks to BSmoot for FA information! :) Jan 10, 2008
bsmoot
 
bsmoot  
 
There are bolted rap stations for the descent now...you need 2 ropes. This cool climb is 2-3 pitches. Beware of avalanche danger from the gully to the East. Dec 29, 2007