Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
Routes in American Fork Ice
|Creamsickle, The WI5-6|
|Type:||Ice, Alpine, 300 ft|
|FA:||Jim Knight & Brian Smoot in 1983|
|Page Views:||1,181 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Stymingersfink on Dec 28, 2007|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThe pillar of the Creamsickle is unmistakable for anything else, showing less frequently and for shorter periods of time than most other climbs in the Wasatch. Originally climbed twentyfive years ago on straight-tools...
Cruxes include: Crossing the stream, thin ice slabs and a steep vertical pillar. If you're not up to soloing WI3R, you'd better do this climb in two pitches... or perhaps hit Bridal Veil instead?
Above the thin smears, just at the base of the snow field below the pillar, on the west side: there is a two bolt anchor 190' above the start.
Above the pillar, move up past three icy steps to a two bolt anchor on the west side. Bring some sling to replace the tat hanging there. ~190' rap to the anchor mentioned above.
This pillar is shorter and more difficult than it appears from the road... MUCH more so.