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Routes in Devil's Den Bouldering

Type: Boulder, 18 ft
FA: Brett Meyers
Page Views: 4,530 total · 35/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Dec 28, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Begin by traversing a horizontal crack system to gain a series of good, incut monos (or two-finger pockets). Yard up on these odd holds, taking care to use the right sequence. Make a long, committing move to the left arete on a rounded sloping hold. Then make another big move way off the deck to the positive holds at the top. There could be cosequences to a fall here. Mantle.

Location

Underneath some bolted route, by a cave on a hill of Devil's Den

Protection

Pad

Photos

Lanky
Tired
  V5
Lanky   Tired
  V5
Nice problem. The pockets are definitely not monos, and one of them is more like a crimp than a pocket, but they're still cool and unusual features (especially for NE granite). There are also decent holds on the arete below the key spot. Most of the difficulty of the problems lies in committing to the last move. Mar 24, 2010
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6+
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6+
While the committing last move is definitely the mental crux, this problem is still physically challenging and definitely deserving of the v6 grade (on the harder side in my opinion). It climbs more like a route, with no real defined crux, but lots of sustained difficulty.

Either way, it's an excellent climb and worth doing if you can confidently climb that grade.

Footage of this problem begins at 0:10

vimeo.com/79342137 Nov 16, 2013
Grodzki Grodzki
Chattanooga, TN
  V6
Grodzki Grodzki   Chattanooga, TN
  V6
Here's a cool video edit of my friend Nick Foster and I climbing "Universal Socket" a few weeks back. If you haven't tried it yet, get out there! Its a classic!


vimeo.com/111818226

Video & Editing by Nick Foster Nov 29, 2014
Tristan Baldwin
Amherst, NH
  V6+
Tristan Baldwin   Amherst, NH
  V6+
The feet for the traverse are terrible. I felt like near the end of the traverse was the crux, up high is scary but not particularly difficult Dec 27, 2014

More About Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem)

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