Avg: 3.9 from 18
votes
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
Classic Thailand. Steep climbing on wild tufas and stalactites with a bit of adventure as well. Sustained pitches with mostly nice belays. Sees a lot of ascents but difficult enough to keep it from getting polished.
Start: Climb the rock just right of the fixed lines that go up and left to the ledge routes. You will be standing under a large orange and black overhanging wall.
P1. 6c+ - 25m - Climb on big holds through the steepest part of the entire route. Belay on a ledge. Very overhanging, a fall will put you far away from the wall. Weaker seconds should know how to prussik up the rope. Great pitch!!
P2. 6c - 20m Head up and right on a gentle overhang, pull a small roof with tufas and belay.
P3. 6c - 20m - More of the same.
P4. 6c - 15m - A really fun pitch with a lot of stemming in the lower half and a surprise at the end. You 'thread the needle' and then the belay at a ledge.
P5. 6c+ - 35m - Long pitch nearly topping out the wall. Gently overhanging rock with a bit more technical climbing than the rest of the route. Very nice! Just left of the oval shaped cave in the picture.
DESCENT: Maybe the crux! This wall is very steep and needs to be back clipped all the way down. Much easier with two ropes, or at least a 70m to rap the top pitch. Rappel from Belay 5 to belay 4, back clip, watch for sharp rock. Rapp from B4 to B2 if you have two ropes, back clip. You must "rethread the needle" at B4. Rap from B2 to the ground with two ropes.
Route is in the shade starting between noon-1pm.
The route is right at the top of the approach trail before the knotted rope to go left at the wall.
You'll need to back-clip several pitches to get back to the top of pitch 2 where a double rope rap drops you right on to the approach trail.
12-15 quickdraws, something to ascend the rope if you fall, maybe a few slings to beat the rope drag. Two ropes makes the rapping much better. Rebolted with titanium.
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Cambridge
Amazing outing, pretty unreal to climb overhanging rock for so many pitches. Go do it! Feb 26, 2017
Fayetteville, WV but curren…
We climbed with a 60m and trailed a 70m, stacking it on each belay ledge. You definitely do not need two ropes, but the rappels were longer, "steeper" and way more fun with two. The descent was quick and easy and we also only back clipped three bolts on the whole route! (Those being on the third pitch).
For some added enjoyment on the decent: Fix the bottom of the 70m tag line to the 3rd anchor, then trail up the top end. Then a quick rope trick puts the tag line on the OUTSIDE of the tunnel (The belayer on top drops some rope with a knot outside the tunnel for the follower to reach over and clip in the tag line. The person on top then drops the original attachment to the tag line, clearing the rope from the tunnel). The rope trick took us about 20 seconds from a comfortable no-hands stance and enabled a long, steeeeeeep 60m rappel from the summit down to the 3rd anchor, which leaves you hanging insanely far from the wall! I had a micro-trax, and easily trollied myself into the wall, using the bottom end of the tag line that was fixed to the 3rd anchor. I then used the micro-trax to trolly in my partner.
I think it took us about 15 minutes to descend from the top, with no struggle or strife. That said, you could definitely just do 5 raps with with one rope and plenty of back clipping, but you'd miss out on some really memorable exposure. Jan 14, 2020
Val-d'Or, QC
Bangkok, Thighland
Fantastic and deserving of all the stars it can get. Every pitches were high quality and had unique characteristics, especially P1 and P5. However, we did (unknowingly) run into a pretty big wasp nest on P4 near where the "threading the needle" section. My partner followed and accidentally caused several wasps to swarmed him....he luckily got away without any stings. We later had to pass the wasp nest again on the descent, and it was pretty scary.
The descent: Absolute pain in the ass (The wasp factor didn't help). We did this with a single 80m rope, in which we ended up stopping at every belay station on the way down. The rappel from P2 to the top of P1 was the crux. If we were to do this again, we would bring 2 ropes.
Note to future parties - definitely bring two ropes per previous teams' suggestion. Your life will be much easier on the way down. Also...keep an eye out for the wasp nest on P4. Jul 19, 2025