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Routes in Cat Wall

April Fools S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Cat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cat And The Cobra, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil Cat S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gilles No Limits S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Heart of Darkness S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
King Cat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 350 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Shamick , Mathues p2 in 99, Tom Zappe, Shamick remaining pitches 2000
Page Views: 3,070 total, 25/month
Shared By: Clayton Rardon on Dec 27, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

Classic Thailand. Steep climbing on wild tufas and stalactites with a bit of adventure as well. Sustained pitches with mostly nice belays. Sees a lot of ascents but difficult enough to keep it from getting polished.

Start: Climb the rock just right of the fixed lines that go up and left to the ledge routes. You will be standing under a large orange and black overhanging wall.

P1. 6c+ - 25m - Climb on big holds through the steepest part of the entire route. Belay on a ledge. Very overhanging, a fall will put you far away from the wall. Weaker seconds should know how to prussik up the rope. Great pitch!!

P2. 6c - 20m Head up and right on a gentle overhang, pull a small roof with tufas and belay.

P3. 6c - 20m - More of the same.
P4. 6c - 15m - A really fun pitch with a lot of stemming in the lower half and a surprise at the end. You 'thread the needle' and then the belay at a ledge.

P5. 6c+ - 35m - Long pitch nearly topping out the wall. Gently overhanging rock with a bit more technical climbing than the rest of the route. Very nice! Just left of the oval shaped cave in the picture.

DESCENT: Maybe the crux! This wall is very steep and needs to be back clipped all the way down. Much easier with two ropes, or at least a 70m to rap the top pitch. Rappel from Belay 5 to belay 4, back clip, watch for sharp rock. Rapp from B4 to B2 if you have two ropes, back clip. You must "rethread the needle" at B4. Rap from B2 to the ground with two ropes.

Route is in the shade starting between noon-1pm.

Location

The route is right at the top of the approach trail before the knotted rope to go left at the wall.

You'll need to back-clip several pitches to get back to the top of pitch 2 where a double rope rap drops you right on to the approach trail.

Protection

12-15 quickdraws, something to ascend the rope if you fall, maybe a few slings to beat the rope drag. Two ropes makes the rapping much better. Rebolted with titanium.
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Climbed the first 4 pitches and rapped with a single 60 meter rope... thought this was relevant to mention because everyone says double ropes are required. A 70m is only needed for the last pitch. Cleaning pitch 2 was sort of a pain, but so is bringing two ropes...

Amazing outing, pretty unreal to climb overhanging rock for so many pitches. Go do it! Feb 26, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Yes it has. Nov 13, 2014
nickls  
Has this been rebolted with titanium? Nov 13, 2014