Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Hoback Shield Right

Above Electric Shower S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Electric Shower S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Muff Buster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mulvado Edge (Electric Arch) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
She's Gotta Have It! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Greg Miles?
Page Views: 791 total, 7/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Dec 27, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

No real crux to this bad boy, just fun movement. I'm not sure of this route's name, but I've heard it called Electric Arch. I'm also fairly certain Greg Miles established it (he developed Electric Shower's second pitch, which went in around the same time).
Anyway, this pretty much follows the corner and arete of the arch that forms the roof of Electric Shower. Some interesting liebacking and ramp-crawling. Can be a little dirty.

Location

Right of Muff Buster.

Protection

Bolts, 2-bolt anchor (same as for Electric Shower).

Photos

- No Photos -
goingUp
over here
goingUp   over here
11b sounds fair for the direct finish (to the first pitch)... I didn't realize the rout went right and climbed straight up on accident... tricky and balancy, and gets very thin! Worth a go. Definitely a tad easier than the crux on Electric shower.

To keep it 5.9, follow the contour of the roof to the in-cut gully, then move back left (you turn left at or just before the electric shower anchor). Oct 26, 2015
Dapper Dan Rogers
Driggs, ID
 
Dapper Dan Rogers   Driggs, ID
 
There's a new 4 bolt direct finish, starting at bolt 5 on Mulvado. Have fun with it. Think 11b was thrown around as rating, but not 100% sure. Jun 2, 2014
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
This is called Mulvado Edge in the Dramis guide. Whatever it's called, it's a pretty decent climb. If you stay right at the top and finish at the anchors on top of Electric Shower, you can continue into the second pitch of Electric Shower for one long pitch that takes about 17-18 draws. A 70-meter rope will get you within a few feet of the ground, just right of the base of Electric Shower where it is easy to down scramble. The second pitch of Electric Shower is, in my opinion, only 5.11a if you stick very true to the bolt line. Instead, you can wander around on big holds, always within arm's reach of the bolts for a pitch that is more in the 10- or mid-10 range. That way, it makes the entire Mulvado Edge/Electric Shower 2nd pitch a fine, moderate, long climb. Aug 4, 2008