A fun, yet somewhat non-memorable sport route. More slabby edges, pinches, and sidepulls.
Next sport route right of The Joker. There is a dirty crack that may have been led on gear between The Joker and Muff Buster with another dirty crack angling right that you climb for the first couple of bolts on Muff Buster. Mulvado Edge is the next bolted sport climb to the right of Muff Buster and follows yet another crack feature right at the edge of the main arch.
Bolts, 2-bolt anchor.
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Dave Ryan
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[Hide Comment] Fun, very sustained climb to the right of the Joker. Crux pretty low as you transition from the fat crack slanting right onto the main face. Folks I was with today tackled that crux by at least three very different approaches including a left hand sidepull working up the edges to the left from down low, tackling it straight from where the right hand crack slants right and climbing high up the right hand crack system till slightly above the bolt and doing a straight arm reach to a Gaston in the obvious big flake then delicately moving across to turn that into a good sidepull. Definite crux sequence there but route doesn't give up easily and stays sustained on more reasonable climbing to top. Probably more than a single letter grade harder than the Joker.
Nov 18, 2019
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