PRINT: Rock Climb Soap on a Rope, Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalina Mountains)

Soap on a Rope

5.10-, TR, 35 ft (11 m),

Avg: 1.5 from 13 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 1 - Lower Highway > Prison Camp (Go… > Mr. Meanor Wall

Description

I drilled anchors on this route but did not find the climbing to be good enough to warrant drilling it for lead. There are several ways to do this route: mantling up the smooth slab and working rightleads you to a large roof with somewhat chossy rock, pulling over this is probably a 10- move, perhaps more difficult for shorter people. If you move left and go through the smaller section of roof, there are several very small, difficult to find crimps that create a one or two move 5.11. One can also move very far left to a small section of crack that is probably 5.6 or so.

Location

Directly opposite of sentence to hang on the short towerlike formation. To toprope it just walk back up on the normal trail and walk over to the edge where you can see the anchors for the new 12's. Look down and you'll see bolts on the tallest part of the formation.

Protection

There two bolts with hangers at the top. Since you have to go to the top anyway, just put draws on and grab them on your way out.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

joshf
missoula, mt

5.10-

If anyone wants to name this climb feel free to make some suggestions, I'm not sure that anyone has climbed the top section of this route, although i have seen people boulder the bottom part so for the FA I don't really know who to give credit. Dec 27, 2007

Chen
Tucson, AZ

5.10

Short but fun climb. The beginning part of this climb is tricky if you are not 6'4". At 510 I kind of mantled and hopped onto the flat step with my right foot. For the top part, if you go left its pretty easy, but if you go up over the roof it is definitely a 5.10 move. I have climbed it both ways. Jan 10, 2008

joshf
missoula, mt

5.10-

Also, if anyone feels that this should be drilled for leading say so, i may have been a bit over critical with my original opinion. Jan 17, 2008

Braxton Norwood
Billings Montana

In the 'Protection' field, what are "protection hangers"? Are they ribbed for her pleasure? Hmm...I like that as a route name. Jul 7, 2008

Adam Block
Tucson, AZ

I don't think this route should be drilled for lead, the way it's set up I can't see room for many bolts anyway. Fun little route, I wish there were more this easy to toprope on Lemmon. Lemmon is lacking climbs friendly to little kids.

As for a name, I would call the route "Bi-Focal" due to how smooth the bottom is and the huge texture change at the halfway mark. If you wanna stick with a prison theme I'd call it "Handball". Jun 25, 2009

Bigbad WOLF Anderson
Tucson, AZ

My vote for a name is " soap on a rope" , smooth slippery part and it's a TR. My brother came up with it and I felt it was worth posting. Great climb either way, I love jailhouse. Climb on guys (: Sep 5, 2009

NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona

I like "Soap On A Rope". The rock is soooooo slick, smooth, and slippery that even chalk doesn't help. :) Dec 12, 2011

Jake Croft
Tucson, Az

Soap on a Rope makes sense, you could also call it "let off easy" because it goes with the prison theme and anyone starting to lead 5.10 is let off easy and gets to toprope it Jan 6, 2013