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Spyin' 'n Flyin'

WI4+, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 47 votes
FA: P1&2: Tod Cozzens, Ric Miller, Jim Montgomery, 1989/90
Wyoming > Cody > S Fork Shoshone… > 2. N Facing/S Side > Upper Canyon S Side

Description

This climb begins down by the river, requiring one to rap in. If the second pitch is less than secure, it may be wise to leave a fixed rope, or perhaps not even do the first two pitchs... Use your best judgement.

p1 - WI3, 50m
p2 - WI3+, 7m
trail
p3 - WI3, 50m
p4 - WI4, 50m
p5 - WI4+, 20m
p6 - WI3, 50m

You can walk off after p5 on skiers left of the pitch. P3 and 4 need to be rappelled from trees.

Location

From the Cabin Creek lot cross the river towards High on Boulder. When you hit the south fork trail turn right to head south deeper upper river. The trail will eventually head uphill and you'll see a prominent box canyon on your right. The route bisects the left (southeast) wall of the box canyon, and if you look carefully you should be able to see the walls of the slot that hosts the route. Both the box canyon and the route are clearly visible on a topo, especially with slope shading. The route is about 2.5 miles from the river crossing or 3.5 miles from the cabin creek lot. Budget around 2 hours for the approach.

The trail intersects the route between pitches 2 and 3. Rappel in to the bottom of the route down a narrowing slot that places you on the shore of the river inside the box canyon. Climb back out, across the trail, and up an addition 3 pitches.

The tube on the 5th pitch should not be missed. 60m half-ropes are the minimum I would suggest. V-thread or sling vegetation and rap the route.  Pitch 6 is a rolling sheet of WI3 about a 5-10min hike above pitch 5.  

The trail crosses the route at 44.0771 N, -109.6461 W.

Protection

Screws... some small-med gear might be handy if P2 is in mixed shape.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Me leading the pitch 5 pillar of Spying and Flying.
[Hide Photo] Me leading the pitch 5 pillar of Spying and Flying.
Bring your bear spray if headed in late in the season.
[Hide Photo] Bring your bear spray if headed in late in the season.
Leading P3, having a great time despite very warm 25/26 season.
[Hide Photo] Leading P3, having a great time despite very warm 25/26 season.
P5 in a little more Pencil conditions
[Hide Photo] P5 in a little more Pencil conditions
From the top of P5, looking down the tube just climbed. Care should be taken prior to getting on this thing that it is secure enough to climb upon
[Hide Photo] From the top of P5, looking down the tube just climbed. Care should be taken prior to getting on this thing that it is secure enough to climb upon
P5, foto by the Pink Menace
[Hide Photo] P5, foto by the Pink Menace
Spying and Flying climbs through some very aesthetic territory.
[Hide Photo] Spying and Flying climbs through some very aesthetic territory.
Nathan leading pitch 6 of Spying and Flying.
[Hide Photo] Nathan leading pitch 6 of Spying and Flying.
Joe leading pitch 4 of Spying and Flying.
[Hide Photo] Joe leading pitch 4 of Spying and Flying.
Fourth pitch as described in Winter Dance.  Feb. 09
[Hide Photo] Fourth pitch as described in Winter Dance. Feb. 09
The short ice-step (solo-able, so not in the pitch-count) during the descent to the river-bottom.
[Hide Photo] The short ice-step (solo-able, so not in the pitch-count) during the descent to the river-bottom.
The rap into the river-bottom, from the top of P2. There is a short 15' ice-step just up the drainage from here, which can be down-climbed or short-rapped.
[Hide Photo] The rap into the river-bottom, from the top of P2. There is a short 15' ice-step just up the drainage from here, which can be down-climbed or short-rapped.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lance Colley
Yosemite Valley
 
[Hide Comment] Unless you are a badass, this approach will be longer than 45 minutes after crossing the river, maybe more like an hour or hour and a half. The best way to know you are getting close to the climb is, as you look down to the right as you hike up river you will notice the river dropping away from you and eventually will be flowing through a massive box canyon with huge steep walls on both sides. You will know it when you see it.

Once you feel like you're right on top of the box canyon the trail will cut into the woods a bit into the correct drainage, there is a flat spot to drop your packs and rack up. Looking up drainage you'll be able to see the awesome Ro Sham Bo, looking down drainage you won't see ice but its down there. You can easily hike around the short 2nd pitch to rap off a tree to the base of the first pitch. The first pitch is easy WI3 but a real adventure! Don't miss it! Pitch 3 is long and fun, pitch 4 is the money pitch IMO and pitch 5 is a cool short WI4+ pillar which was very wet and drippy by the time we got to it.

Awesome climb and the approach really isn't that bad! Just a long scenic walk! Feb 14, 2016
Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA
  WI4+
[Hide Comment] I agree with Lance about the approach. It is a 4 mile walk from the car so not going to happen in 45 minutes if you are walking. Although it is all relatively flat and easy walking. You can walk around the pitch 5 pillar on climber's right. It is faster than rappelling back down after climbing pitch 6. Also if pitch 5 is out you can still walk around it to get up to pitch 6. A really cool route that is well worth the effort. Jan 24, 2019
Bogdan Petre
West Lebanon, NH
  WI4+
[Hide Comment] 2 hour approach. Very aesthetic climb. Deserves to be an area classic. Watch out for the mountain lion that seems to wander this area. We saw footprints, and others have reported similar in previous seasons. Jan 7, 2021
Martin le Roux
Superior, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The trail crosses the route at 44.0771 N, -109.6461 W. According to our GPS watches it's about 4.25 miles from Cabin Creek trailhead. Jan 14, 2021
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  WI4+
[Hide Comment] This is a fun adventure day. Plan on doing some hiking between pitches! Mar 8, 2023
Mulch
Jacobstown, NJ
[Hide Comment] The approach is about 4 miles from the parking lot to the flat spot for racking up. Sabrina bring your drone next time. Jan 23, 2024