This climb begins down by the river, requiring one to rap in. If the second pitch is less than secure, it may be wise to leave a fixed rope, or perhaps not even do the first two pitchs... Use your best judgement.
p1 - WI3, 50m
p2 - WI3+, 7m
trail
p3 - WI3, 50m
p4 - WI4, 50m
p5 - WI4+, 20m
p6 - WI3, 50m
You can walk off after p5 on skiers left of the pitch. P3 and 4 need to be rappelled from trees.
From the Cabin Creek lot cross the river towards High on Boulder. When you hit the south fork trail turn right to head south deeper upper river. The trail will eventually head uphill and you'll see a prominent box canyon on your right. The route bisects the left (southeast) wall of the box canyon, and if you look carefully you should be able to see the walls of the slot that hosts the route. Both the box canyon and the route are clearly visible on a topo, especially with slope shading. The route is about 2.5 miles from the river crossing or 3.5 miles from the cabin creek lot. Budget around 2 hours for the approach.
The trail intersects the route between pitches 2 and 3. Rappel in to the bottom of the route down a narrowing slot that places you on the shore of the river inside the box canyon. Climb back out, across the trail, and up an addition 3 pitches.
The tube on the 5th pitch should not be missed. 60m half-ropes are the minimum I would suggest. V-thread or sling vegetation and rap the route. Pitch 6 is a rolling sheet of WI3 about a 5-10min hike above pitch 5.
The trail crosses the route at 44.0771 N, -109.6461 W.
Screws... some small-med gear might be handy if P2 is in mixed shape.
Yosemite Valley
Once you feel like you're right on top of the box canyon the trail will cut into the woods a bit into the correct drainage, there is a flat spot to drop your packs and rack up. Looking up drainage you'll be able to see the awesome Ro Sham Bo, looking down drainage you won't see ice but its down there. You can easily hike around the short 2nd pitch to rap off a tree to the base of the first pitch. The first pitch is easy WI3 but a real adventure! Don't miss it! Pitch 3 is long and fun, pitch 4 is the money pitch IMO and pitch 5 is a cool short WI4+ pillar which was very wet and drippy by the time we got to it.
Awesome climb and the approach really isn't that bad! Just a long scenic walk! Feb 14, 2016
Spokane, WA
West Lebanon, NH
Superior, CO
Spokane, WA
Jacobstown, NJ