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Feeding Frenzy
5.13c/d,
Sport,
Avg: 2.6 from 9
votes
FA: Ward Smith, '90s
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> Monsters from the Id
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area
Details
Description
This is the short very powerful route that follows the pretty crack/flake on the right side of the cliff just before you get to the chimney of White Zombie (5.12d).
Right off the ground you are in the business with a strong and very crimpy move up and left to a decent pod. From here you move up slightly to some pretty good holds but on this steep wall they are no picnic. Then you may make use of holds out left but keeping your feet on is a challenge. A few more hard moves gets you the prize hold a nice jug a bit more than half way up. After a quick shake head out right on good holds for a more moderate but still super steep finish.
I've climbed on the route but haven't figured all of the moves so if you have specific beta please share it.
Location
Right of Stone Monkeys (5.13b) and left of White Zombie (5.12d).
Protection
4 bolts to anchor.
[Hide Photo] Get ready for some convoluted beta shots: upper left > lower left > upper right > lower right. The moves were hard enough that my shirt disintegrated
[Hide Photo] Intro boulder, I consider this to be V9 for someone of my stature.
[Hide Photo] Trying to make use of the nice undercling out left...
[Hide Photo] Working the last few easy moves for when i eventually get there...
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
Anyway, I lowered to the ground, on the verge of tears from all the pain, and sat at the base, bleeding and whimpering for a while. I left a big puddle of blood at the base. We went back and climbed at Monsters the next day, and I was expecting to see evidence from my bloodletting from the previous day. When I went over to the base of the route, I saw that all of the blood was gone. Some animal must have lapped it up during the night. I try to remember this when I think of trying the route again. Dec 28, 2007
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
New England
I am really surprised that no one has done the sit down start..very hard, but I would think one of the strong boulderers would snap it off. Jan 3, 2008
New Hampshire
State Radio serenading the crowd who came out in the rain.
youtube.com/watch?v=xCFG-d6… May 18, 2009
New England