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Routes in The Umbrella Boulder

Type: Boulder
FA: John Sherman
Page Views: 3,456 total, 28/month
Shared By: Jeremiah Johnson on Dec 25, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

A New England classic. Head straight up and out the overhang. Many different sequences will get you most of the way up the boulder, but the crux for most will be the last couple moves, when you can no longer keep your feet down low.

Apparently this was originally a v8 when Sherman sent it, using a blowtorch to dry the holds. The upper jug exfoliated, leaving the problem in its current state. Dave Graham got the first re-ascent.

Protection

Crashpads

Photos

Jake! Although it is not visible or recommended, no pads were used during this assent. It was too cold for sport climbing on this day. Needless to say guy need to blow off some steam! Apr 23, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Yeah the beta in the video is incredible. Dude must be so strong! Also worth noting that this is actually the Satan's Sister Sally V10 not Satan on a Halfshell... Mar 7, 2013
Lanky
Tired
  V9
Lanky   Tired
  V9
The beta in that vid is for CRAZY STRONG MOFOS! Normal people do at least two moves before hitting the high right crimp he grabs first. Mar 7, 2013
Found this on youtube; not the greatest video,but it shows the moves pretty well
youtube.com/watch?v=yr03VJA… Mar 6, 2013
Jeremiah Johnson
Contoocook, NH
 
Jeremiah Johnson   Contoocook, NH
 
It seems odd to me to have two different names for the different starts when they get you to the same crux, and at virtually the same difficulty at that. I think you're right about the names though. Feb 22, 2010
Lanky
Tired
  V9
Lanky   Tired
  V9
I hate to be that guy, but I think this is easier than V10. Both versions feel about the same (though Satan's Sister Sally may be a touch easier), but neither feels as hard as I expect a V10 to feel. Feb 22, 2010
Ethan Neff  
 
One of my all time favorites!! Watch out for a puddle that forms right above the top out. If it's full, water will leech down a crack and onto the upper crux hold. I've had to bail out the puddle a couple of times with a piece of bark. Good landing, great line! Sep 26, 2009
Lanky
Tired
  V9
Lanky   Tired
  V9
As I understand it, Satan on a Half Shell starts about in the middle of the boulder and follows a vertical rail feature up until you traverse a few moves left, set up on crimps, and chuck for the broken hold.

Satan's Sister Sally starts further left and moves straight into the same dyno using a right hand crimp and left hand slot. Aug 22, 2008