Type: Ice, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Greg Lowe, 1971
Page Views: 2,561 total · 19/month
Shared By: Stymingersfink on Dec 24, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Two Options, both entail a 45-50min approach.

Option 1:

P1:(WI4+) Climb the steep but steppy right side to a sheltered ledge belay with a slung tree, about 150' up.

P2:(WI5)Continue up the right side to a 45' column surrounded by cauliflower ice, above here one may find a pin anchor to rap from, or continue up the next curtain to a pin or screw anchor at the frozen pool. Approx. 190'

Option 2:

P1:(WI5)Climb the steeper (and often thinner) left side, belaying from screws in an icy cave 180' from the ground.

P2: (WI5)Leave the belay, traverse right about 15-20', then up the steep pillar presenting itself to you.

If you will be rapping off, step right and downclimb a short way to the pin anchor mentioned in option 1 above.
If you will be walking off, continue up the next shorter pillar to the frozen pool.

BOTH OPTIONS:

P3: (WI3)Solo (or rope up, whatever floats your boat) a 50' section of WI3 to gain the gully above. To walk off, continue up the drainage a bit, then gain the ridgeline directly east. The trail drops steeply down to the original canyon you began in, but farther up from where your packs will be.

Location

If you're in the proper canyon, you can't miss this one... it's a biggie! Walk-off details mentioned above, if you're going to rap the route, bring v-thread materials just in case.

Protection

5-8 screws

Photos

dfrancom
Palmer, AK
 
dfrancom   Palmer, AK
 
The right conditions are sometimes hard to catch, beware of the second pitch, when its warm ice will be falling in large car sized pieces. But when its right, its a real treat! Dec 29, 2009
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
Sometime in the early 90s Mike Vanderbeek and I did the route. He lead the first pitch whilst I did the second. The second pitch gets sun and can be dripping (note the Brian Smoot picture of Merrill Bitter). As I was going up several of my screws melted out. At the top the pillar was detached with lots of running water. Somehow I got a pin in and managed to traverse over to the belay. After that Mike came up. We did a single rope rap back to the base.

As we were packing up our gear a couple of hikers walked up. Just then the whole upper pillar came crashing down. Mike and I just started laughing. The hikers never understood or knew we had just been on the pillar. Nov 3, 2017