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Routes in Storm Mountain Ice Falls

Glass Case of Emotion WI3-4 M4-5
PsychoBabble Gully T WI2
Storm Mountain WI4 PG13
Type: Ice, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rick Wyatt and Dave Jenkins in 1979
Page Views: 2,868 total, 24/month
Shared By: Stymingersfink on Dec 24, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

The most difficult part of this climb is finding it in perfect condition. As soon as the inversion even starts to lift, this climb begins to deteriorate. It will be gone within the week, due to it's southern exposure.

Location

South facing, just north of the storm mountain picnic area and east of psychobabble wall. Typical descent is up the pillar, over the top, down the gully just east of the ice. In poor conditions, rap the route (be prepared to V-thread).

Protection

screws.
If you get there late on a warm day and want to tick it anyway, you'd better bring some stoppers too. I did :)
Another pitch up some pretty cool mixed moves ascends to the final belay which is above the cord/tree belay. You didn't find the final fixed belay because it is higher than where you climbed, it seems. Jan 16, 2008
As I installed two higher bolted stations above Brian's and thereafter rapped the route, the first pitch is actually 30m (can be rapped with one 60m rope) not 62m as mentioned above. The upper raps down the route (from the top and from the base of the upper steep pillar) are double rope rappels from anchor to anchor so one needs two ropes anyway. I have heard this has already been repeated (the raps), but it is advisable to rap from fixed bolted anchor to fixed bolted anchor (very smooth) and so forth instead of from the 4th pitch tree belay to the #1 belay as stuck ropes may be the consequence. Jan 8, 2008
bsmoot  
There is now a bolted rap station at the top of the first pitch (about 60M). oops I meant 30+ meters. Dec 26, 2007