Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman early 2000s
Page Views: 3,485 total · 26/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Dec 23, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

A fun little route. The rock's a bit different than you'd find at the rest of the Shield. Fun patina-like edges and some pockets/horizontals. A good warmup.

Location

Just before the main approach trail hits the cliff base, look for a small spur trail shooting off left. Follow this into the forest and to the base.

Protection

Take draws. Rap bolts on top.

Photos

boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.7+
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Short but fun climb. Thin edging for a 5.7. Aug 1, 2009
Walt Barker
Reno NV
  5.7+
Walt Barker   Reno NV
  5.7+
...yeah, awesome route. I agree, a bit thin for 5.7, but fun place to cool down and relax once the sun hits the rest of the Shield. Dec 16, 2010
Amelia Howe
Jackson, WY
 
Amelia Howe   Jackson, WY
 
Skip this slippery 5.7 and warm up on the 5.8 (Hoi Polloi) on the far right side of the crag. Jun 6, 2018
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8
Amelia (see below) may be correct. Probably gotten slippery over the years. pm thunderstorms started to move in so we only did this one climb, plus a "scope out" along the base of the cliff.

I found that on the 2 or 3 places where there were "must use" feet, the footholds were well polished, "otherwise" not too bad.
Leading it with no Beta whatsoever I thought it at least 5.8; taking a 2nd run at it on TR, and using some "beta" from my (shorter) partner's climb, maybe 5.7+ or so. STOP NOW IF YOU DON'T WANT THE BETA

Starting left of the 1st bolt (at some disconnected vertical cracks) is easier and more protectable to the 1st bolt (small-to-medium nuts/cams), than starting in the more obvious place a bit right of B#1.

At the 4th bolt I couldn't believe the climb went Right under the bulge, so climbed directly up just Left of the bolt and then made a BIG step back right to the chains. 2nd time I climbed the route and I'd say it does go R below the bulge.

No real crux, just lots of 5.6 to 5.7+ moves, although maybe between B's #2 and #3 and the last move to the chains. Sep 12, 2018