[Hide Comment] One of the best of the grade in the RRG. Nice long route with great moves the whole way. Oct 21, 2009

[Hide Comment] Well a Local just told me this may be the hardest ten in the gorge and those crimps at the 5th bolt leave something to be desired when trying to clip with an ankle buster waiting for you when you blow. Over all amazing climb every move is a ten move but it ain't a gimmie for a 10 or 11 a/b climber. Oct 8, 2010

[Hide Comment] Found it slightly pumpy through the upper mid section, but some good rests allow the majority to go pretty smooth. Some awkward movements, but fun through and through. A second to Breakfast Burrito if you ask me. Dec 5, 2011

[Hide Comment] As of Oct 19, 2012, the anchors are not equalized; the left and higher quicklink takes all the load and is showing significant wear. Replacing this link with three new quicklinks in a chain should provide an equalized anchor. I have also reported this situation at redriverclimbing.com Oct 21, 2012

[Hide Comment] I blew it at the 5th bolt. Agree that it was a great route except for clipping that bolt. As it stands if the draw is pre-hung it's fine but if you have to place it, it's not really good because you move higher and higher searching for the better hold to clip until you realize there are none and you are already at waist level. My belayer flew up into the first bolt so I probably fell 2x the distance from 5th to 4th bolt + 12 feet + rope stretch. Not sure how long that was but it was looong.

Both belayer and I are fine though. I only hit air on the way down, but yeah I probably got lucky. Apr 14, 2014

[Hide Comment] Forget the clips debate. That sit down saddle position is worth it. Mar 22, 2015

[Hide Comment] This was the first route I did at the Red. Don't remember any clips being spicy and I wasn't much stronger than an 11a Red climber at the time.. Jul 27, 2015

[Hide Comment] Nothing beats that saddle sit down rest near the top. May 9, 2016

[Hide Comment] Agree with Jon - I think the clips are OK. You may pump out & fall (it is pumpy) but there isn't much to worry about with that fall imo. Oct 20, 2017

[Hide Comment] Took a pretty big whip at the anchors last week and landed squarely on a tree (not a good fall). Not recommending anything be changed, just a word of caution: don't pump at the anchor - also, the lightly chalked hold above and right of the anchor is not a mega jug!

Otherwise, I loved this route! Jul 9, 2019

[Hide Comment] Same situation as J.J. Bremberg, took a fall at the anchors and hit the same tree. Left a pretty nasty gash in my right buttocks, would have had to go to the ER if there hadn't been a doctor onsite to stitch me up. Love the route though!! Apr 11, 2021

[Hide Comment] Like the two others, my partner also fell right at the chains and maimed himself badly on the tree. No permanent damage, but a trip ender :(

The crimp to the right of chains is positive, but not a jug. There is a horizontal crack below that I chicken-clipped from instead. Not sure what is more manageable.

Unfortunately, the belayer can not see the climber here. I had only a tiny bump of slack out -- keeping a very tight belay / taking up slack during fall may help with tree (at risk of ankle!) but hard to tell. My partner hit the tree before they hit the wall.

Depending on your risk tolerance, IMO, I would rest at the final bolt or grab chains if feeling extra tired. The last moves are not difficult, but your mileage may differ if pumped! Nonetheless, it is an excellent route with thoughtful movement. Stay safe and enjoy! Apr 25, 2022

[Hide Comment] Guess I should have read the comments, because I too took a massive whip from the top through the tree. Sounds like I fared better than most since I just had a few solid bruises and abrasions, but it could have been much worse (it was a day ender for me, not a trip ender). Great climb, but if you are feeling pumped, definitely rest at that last bolt before going for the anchors. That last clipping hold is a heart, and possibly body, breaker. May 18, 2022

[Hide Comment] I agree Dustin. I will add a bolt on it when I can. I don't think this has been rebolted, so it may be a candidate for a full rebolt anyways. May 20, 2022

[Hide Comment] New SS Glue-Ins 9/2022. Sep 13, 2022

[Hide Comment] Stellar 10d - perhaps a bit stiff for the grade but comes with good rests. I found the crux at the 5th bolt is only a crux due to everything being covered in chalk - even the bad holds. Took a big but very safe whip my first time on it. There are good enough holds to make it manageable, and you can climb high and clip from a jug if you have the guts for it. Sep 26, 2022