PRINT: Climb Maple Syrup, Maple Canyon

Maple Syrup

WI5-6 R, Ice, 200 ft (61 m),

Avg: 3.9 from 19 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Ice > Box Canyon Ice Climbs

Access Issue: Private Property/Skin or Hike Approach Details

Continued access to Box Canyon is at the pleasure of the private landowner. Please...no dogs, no defecating in canyon. Pack it out. Pack it all out.

The best single book for Maple Canyon Ice Climbs is Jason Stevens' Maple Canyon Ice Climbing, available at area specialty equipment shops (or perhaps from him directly if you contact him on this site). Read it, especially his section on vehicular access issues.

All of the climbs in Maple Canyon absolutely require snow to provide moisture for the melt/freeze which forms these climbs, so snow-covered roads are pretty much a given. Plan to hike or skin up the road. It's a nice warm-up for the climbing, and will alleviate a lot of opportunities for a headache.

Description

The name comes from the golden maple-brown color this flow typically sports. Climbing a steep cauliflowered slab brings one to one of the more amazing pillars nestled in this right-facing corner, surrounded by Maple's cobbles.

Location

This route is impossible to miss. Hike up the canyon, through the cave and over the boulder. Look left.

Protection

Screws, some smallish rock gear may be found adjacent to the climb.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kyle Dempster training for the Piolet d' Or on Maple Syrup in not so ideal conditions.

The Swiss Miss nearing the top of Maple Syrup, 2/2006

The Swiss Miss, screwing around on Maple Syrup's WI5+ pillar. One can see a taste of the climb's namesake coloration in this pic.

Very filled in conditions from 3/23

Contemplating the roof, mid March 2023

Leading over the bulges.

Late season ice. This climb is well protected from the sun.

Looking up the crux.

Steve Berwanger working his way through the crux. 02-10-2010.

maple moon (left) & Maple Syrup (right)...as of 01/15/09

The Pillar vibrated badly every time I stuck it with my tools. The nut behind a cobble and a screw behind the base of the pillar was the last good gear I anticipated seeing. I was right.

Maple Syrup... belayer's perspective.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sean McLane
SL, UT

Anchor tat was cleaned on March 14, 2021. There is currently cord connecting the two bolts with two non-locking carabiners at the anchor point. Mar 16, 2021