Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Rodman, Bloom
Page Views: 1,070 total · 8/month
Shared By: markguycan on Dec 19, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

5 Opinions

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flagstaff, AZ
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
left of Easy Rider, FA removed bolts placed effectively making this a TR only route. Climb thin face to awkward shallow obtuse chimney. fun TR at the base of Broken Arete. Dec 19, 2007
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11 R
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11 R
Just right of Easy Rider this route is a fun way to finish after completing Broken Arete. Thin, technical face climbing gives way to a dihedral. Just when you think the business is over it throws a few more moves at you before easing off. All in all this is a great line. Feb 16, 2008
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Yes, right of Easy Rider.

I was accidentally involved with equipping this pitch for lead under the encouragement of local legends... They never mentioned that it had been lead....... Albeit by a .13+ climber bent on some strange ego trip... Well, yah, most of us don't find soloing 5.11 in Sedona an option, and if you think you are raising the bar, I hope you are just over that shit at this point... R routes are great, I love them, and have done many a well calculated R ascents at 5.12... But Rodney, you aren't making heads turn with this one. You are just making people toprope it, and in the end calling it an average line at that- When it could stand out in many minds as a classic!

Anyway, it was a great route for a while that many enjoyed, and many would have enjoyed as a semi safe, hard lead in Sedona... Irrational egos have a tendency to distance themselves from the rest of us, and I do still find it upsetting that the few bolts placed on this pitch to make it a reasonable lead were pulled... Chopped, or whatever so long ago. We had once called it Demon Box, but yah, Brown Hornet seems to be a fitting name... (I did see a thirty foot fall on this line when it was "reasonable")

Dec 14, 2010
Here here! I wholeheartedly agree with the myriad points addressed in the above comment. The route put butterflies in my stomach and a smile on my face every time. It's an unfortunate set of events that led to it's current state.

I still remember Matty whipping off the top section and having a few pieces pull before being held by a blue Metolious after a 30' or 40' fall. Great times. Mar 31, 2011
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
Fantastic route, almost didn't TR it after leading broken arĂȘte, but my buddy promised it was really fun, and it is! sucks that basically no one can lead it now, without a death wish, since it's a great line in a fun area. I wizzed on this route first so I own it? Sometimes this makes no sense.... Dec 12, 2012