Was once A "must do" for first-time visitors to the Adirondacks as a 5.7+, but since a crux handhold-block came off a few years ago the grade is now 5.8+ - 5.9 ( see comments )
Pitch 1:
Start this route on the off-width size crack that leads to the large belay. (5.7 / 40 feet) You can also reach this spot by easy 5th class on the flake/chimney on the right.
Pitch 2:
Leave the belay and head off right aiming to turn the roof. The crux moves lead past this roof (bolt), then finish up easier ground to the rim of the cliff. (Somewhere between 5.8+ and 5.10- PG / 110 feet)
Enjoy the big air below you, strenuous and thoughtful climbing all over the route, and clean rock abound.
History: This route was one of the classics of the region until the roof collapsed in 2008, taking with it the only protection through this section. What remained was a lone, unstable tooth hanging from the [now higher] roof. This finally fell too. A bolt was added in 2016, reinstating this classic upper pitch.
Orford, NH
I would recommend Blacksmith next to this if you are looking for a high quality, well protected face climb..... May 14, 2010
Northfield, VT
Saratoga Springs, NY
Saranac lake
Suncook