Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Pegasus

5.8+ PG13, Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.9 from 40 votes
FA: Rich Leswing, Jim Cunningham, and Peggy Collins 7/21/82
New York > Adirondacks > B: Chapel Pond… > Beer Walls > Lower Beer Wall

Description

Was once A "must do" for first-time visitors to the Adirondacks as a 5.7+, but since a crux handhold-block came off a few years ago the grade is now 5.8+  - 5.9 ( see comments )  

Pitch 1:

Start this route on the off-width size crack that leads to the large belay. (5.7 / 40 feet) You can also reach this spot by easy 5th class on the flake/chimney on the right.

Pitch 2:

Leave the belay and head off right aiming to turn the roof. The crux moves lead past this roof (bolt), then finish up easier ground to the rim of the cliff. (Somewhere between 5.8+ and 5.10-  PG / 110 feet)

Enjoy the big air below you, strenuous and thoughtful climbing all over the route, and clean rock abound.

History: This route was one of the classics of the region until the roof collapsed in 2008, taking with it the only protection through this section. What remained was a lone, unstable tooth hanging from the [now higher] roof. This finally fell too. A bolt was added in 2016, reinstating this classic upper pitch.

Location

In the center of the Lower Beer Walls, about 200 feet to the left of the Pats' Blue Ribbon alcove is a large detached flake leaning against the cliff. This is it.

Protection

A standard rack with a nice variety of passive pro. Long slings and a couple cordelettes. If you want to rap this route, bring a tag line, or climb with doubles.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ken Reville making an early Spring time ascent of Pegasus in 1988. Me and Rich Leswing made the first ascent of the route in 1982. -Jamie (Jim) Cunningham
[Hide Photo] Ken Reville making an early Spring time ascent of Pegasus in 1988. Me and Rich Leswing made the first ascent of the route in 1982. -Jamie (Jim) Cunningham
Tatiana enjoying the views of the great range on top of Pegasus
[Hide Photo] Tatiana enjoying the views of the great range on top of Pegasus

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick W
Orford, NH
  5.8+ R
[Hide Comment] Climbed this the other day. I was told that it was 5.7, and a classic. It felt more like hard 5.8. The 5.8 first pitch of Anteater is a fun, well protected way to reach the second pitch of this climb.

I would recommend Blacksmith next to this if you are looking for a high quality, well protected face climb..... May 14, 2010
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] great route, a little sketchy for my taste off the P1 belay ledge. Sep 30, 2010
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
[Hide Comment] Somewhere near the crap pin, a probably-good-enough yellow alien can be very delicately placed. Sep 3, 2012
Nicholas Orton
Saranac lake
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] This route is now G rated, as the janky block has fallen and a bolt was added. Jul 15, 2019
[Hide Comment] Glad to hear the bolt got placed on the crux of the second pitch. Oct 2, 2019
Jim Lawyer

  5.8+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Jamieā€”I think 5.8+ PG is about right. Aug 31, 2022