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Routes in Tiger Cage

Bonsai Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eye Of The Tiger T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flintstone Feet T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Give That Cat a Comb T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Jersey Attitude T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Offwidth, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This Pussy Eats You T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
This is Hard T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tiger Tiers T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.6 Hand Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Greg Vernon, 8/86
Page Views: 1,532 total, 13/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Dec 14, 2007 with updates
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The route is fairly straight forward. Simply ascend the crack (the direct boulder start is rated 5.10b) to where the crack splits into a "Y" shape which creates two parallel cracks (thus the routes' namesake!). Twenty feet above the split, make a short traverse to the left on a small horizontal crack. The two cracks can be stemmed and jammed (5.9) to the top of the climb. Or the left most crack can be jammed (.10a) to make the route more challenging. There are two anchor bolts at the top of the climb. Pro to 2". The upper section requires smaller gear (3/8" to 3/4")

Location

When first approaching the Courtright area, locate a gravel pullout on the right side of Courtright Road (next to the PG&E access gate). At the top end of the gravel pullout, locate a small rock cairne that identifies the trail to the Tiger Cage/Tiger Wall area. Follow this trail around the right side of segmented and terraced rock formation. As the trail bends left, a wall on the left side appears. This is Tiger Cage. Continue uphill 100 yards further and locate a single crack, that eventually splits into two parallel crack 20 feet above the base. This is the start of 'This Pussy Eats You'.

Protection

Essential Gear

+ Single 50 meter rope
+ A few slings for directionals
+ Pro to 2" (#1 Metolious TCU and several medium pieces... nuts work well too!)

Photos

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Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
Nicola -

As you can see from the page previous, this is indeed under the Tiger Cage section. And Tiger Tiers is on the Tiger Wall, not Tiger Cage area. Nov 15, 2016
Nicola
 
Nicola  
 
I think this route should go under the "tiger cage" sector. Also, if you want to rap down, you can use the ring of Tiger Tiers Aug 8, 2016
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.10b
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.10b
There is one bolt at the top with no rappel ring. It is next to an awkward backward flaring crack that a #2 BD cam wants to walk out of. I used a red link cam (~BD #1) further down the crack to back up the bolt for a top anchor. Until another bolt is added for the anchor and rings or links installed, walk right 20' to the top of Tiger Tiers and rap from there off two bolts with quick-links.

A #1 Metolius (blue) cam or equivalent was a useful piece to have. Bring a couple 0.5 BD sized cams for the top. Jun 26, 2016