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Routes in Cracked Wall

Beans and Franks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
First Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Montana Wildhack TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Quasar T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Scalped T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Second Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixth Sense T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tasmanian Devil TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Third Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomahawk TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watch Me T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Ken Nichols, August 1982
Page Views: 190 total, 2/month
Shared By: percious on Dec 12, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route

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Usually this one is top-roped from the 2nd Crack TR. Pull the difficult overhang to the left of 2nd Crack and continue up thin face moved to the top. Pulling the bottom crux moves was one of the highlights of my CT climbing days, even if it was on TR. Sustained 5.9+ moves get you to the top.


Top Rope.


North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
I can't comment specifically on the gear on this climb but, as I commented on "Sunshine" another "freed" climb, by "free" I mean you place maybe one or two pieces of gear and are in ground-fall range for a good portion of the climb. Does that count as a trad lead or is it a free-solo with some placed gear so you can call it a trad lead? Lots of freed climbs were done like that in CT. Aug 10, 2012
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Brian - by gear do you mean hooks? Tied down hooks do not constitute gear and does not'qualify' as a free ascent even in Ken's own book. Aug 10, 2012
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
Finally got this one clean on t.r. after a few attempts over the years. That thing at the bottom can be done in one strenuous move once you figure out the holds (if your tall enough). I have also seen others dance around with 3 or 4 moves to do the same thing. The face above is very sustained , but a nice direct line can be had at the grade. I thought that this was easier than the entertainer, which gets 5.10 in the book, which i still have not gotten clean. Aug 9, 2012
T Roper
FA does not mean free, that would be FFA Brian. just sayin from the land of top rope FAs known as CT Jun 7, 2012
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Has this one been freed? If not it should not have the X rating. TR climbs don't get X ratings. Jun 5, 2012
Erosion has increased the difficulty at the start; short climbers will have a difficult time starting the proper way. Jun 24, 2010