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The Stand

5.11-, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 56 votes
FA: Russ Raffa & Rich Goldstone, 1981
New York > Gunks > Trapps > k. The Slime Wall

Description

The crux...is making the "stand" just after the corner.

Good route with good gear and great moves.

Climb a good crack to a short left-facing hanging corner, and up the corner to where it ends. Step right and make the stand, then head back left and up the face to the Frustration Syndrome bolts.

Location

Below a crack leading to a left-facing corner, midway between Frustration Syndrome and Wasp.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Standing on The Stand
[Hide Photo] Standing on The Stand

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sean Sullivan
Idyllwild, CA
[Hide Comment] We toproped this climb after climbing Frustration Syndrome (as I suspect most parties do). While I agree the moves are great, I don't know about the gear. The gear at the crux is there, but above and below I did not see much. While I was able to tr this cleanly, I still don't think I'd lead it. Aug 10, 2015
SethG
[Hide Comment] Having led this recently I can tell you there is good gear below, during and above the crux. Bring some small nuts/microcams for the little horizontal seam just after you do the crux move and step left. Aug 12, 2015
David Stowe
[Hide Comment] As Seth said the gear at the crux is good. And with respect to the gear below the crux, gear pretty much doesn't get any better than the 12-15 feet leading to the crux. Aug 14, 2015
Ostap Vidov
mamaroneck
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Great climb. Took a few tries & falls to figure out the crux but once you do its pretty straightforward. Plenty of 5.10 moves before the crux. Protects well. Save a .2 after the crux. A .2 below the crux works well too Sep 10, 2019
Rob D
Queens, NY
 
[Hide Comment] god bless the black totem Oct 30, 2022