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Routes in Elephant Head

Northwest Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West-Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bill Buckingham and Art Davidson, 1962.
Page Views: 1,448 total · 11/month
Shared By: Joe Stern on Dec 11, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description [Suggest Change]

The route up the Northwest Buttress is the type of climb where no two parties choose the same path. Kelsey's guidebook reports variations between 5.4 and 5.6. There are a couple enticing 5.8 options near the prow that are worthwhile.

Beware loose rock - wear a helmet!

Location [Suggest Change]

The route ascents the obvious fin of rock on the north side of Elephant Peak. Follow this feature for about 6 pitches of 5.4 - 5.8 rock to the huge, flat summit. The South Gully is the descent, which is mostly just steep hiking on talus.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Gear for this one is the standard rack for moderate Wind River routes in the summer: set of nuts, set of camming units from fingers to hands, and a few runners. Bring a 60 meter rope for long pitches - there are lots of ledges to choose from. You won't see any bolts out here!

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