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Routes in Elephant Head

Northwest Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West-Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bill Buckingham and Art Davidson, 1962.
Page Views: 1,377 total, 11/month
Shared By: Joe Stern on Dec 11, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

The route up the Northwest Buttress is the type of climb where no two parties choose the same path. Kelsey's guidebook reports variations between 5.4 and 5.6. There are a couple enticing 5.8 options near the prow that are worthwhile.

Beware loose rock - wear a helmet!

Location

The route ascents the obvious fin of rock on the north side of Elephant Peak. Follow this feature for about 6 pitches of 5.4 - 5.8 rock to the huge, flat summit. The South Gully is the descent, which is mostly just steep hiking on talus.

Protection

Gear for this one is the standard rack for moderate Wind River routes in the summer: set of nuts, set of camming units from fingers to hands, and a few runners. Bring a 60 meter rope for long pitches - there are lots of ledges to choose from. You won't see any bolts out here!

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