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Routes in Castle Crag

A Cut Above T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swinging T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trapeze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Undertaker, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Thomson & Mudie April 76
Page Views: 45 total, 0/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Dec 10, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

I don't think this pitch merits the semi-classic status conferred upon it by the guidebook. It's primarily noteworthy for being perhaps the easiest "sport climb" at Araps, if you consider two bolts in 50' a sport climb.

Clip Trapeze's 1st bolt and continue up and slightly right to a 2nd bolt, then on to rap anchors just below the top. The crux is either getting from B1 to B2 or just past B2.

Location

Same as Trapeze

Protection

Very light rack. You can place gear on the 5.4 terrain before the 1st bolt. After that it would be a real RP struggle to anything other than the bolts. Be glad the ancient carrot bolts have been replaced -- in addition to being structurally questionable, one of them was bent so that if you didn't clip your bolt bracket with the right type of biner, the rope was likely to pull the bracket off the carrot as you climbed past.

Photos

David Stephenson
Mount Wellington, Tasmania
 
David Stephenson   Mount Wellington, Tasmania
 
Good climbing with spaced bolts. Mar 16, 2017
Ryan Kelly
work.
 
Ryan Kelly   work.
 
The most over-rated climb at Araps. Probably my least memorable from the trip. May 20, 2009