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Cupcake Corner

WI4-5 M5, Sport, Mixed, Ice, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 77 votes
FA: David Roetzel
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Vail Ice > Rigid Designator Amph…

Description

This is one of the few moderate lines in the Designator/Fang Amphitheatre. Thanks from the low-end mixed climbers, Dave!

Follow 4 bolts up a corner with a decent number of great, dry tool placements. Do a funky mantel-ish/pullup onto a ledge. Moving past the 5th bolt seems funky and that apparent V-slot isn't as good as it seems. There are a couple holds that work better as hand holds than dry tool placements just before the 6th bolt. Moving up to the anchors varies from thin to easy ice up to a 2 bolt anchor.

As mentioned below in a comment, this rock is relatively fresh and will shed in quantity. It does make for different experiences on the same route over time.

Location

This is just to the right of Little Thang/Frigid Inseminator & left of the red tagged project (Jack?).

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolts Fixe Rap Ring anchor (shared with Little Thang/Frigid Inseminator).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Buster finishing up the upper ice section on Cupcake Corner.
[Hide Photo] Buster finishing up the upper ice section on Cupcake Corner.
Very fun climb.
[Hide Photo] Very fun climb.
Working the sweet sweet Cupcake Corner.
[Hide Photo] Working the sweet sweet Cupcake Corner.
First mixed lead. The traverse section onto the ice is bomber if you find the Stein pull and keep your feet low.
[Hide Photo] First mixed lead. The traverse section onto the ice is bomber if you find the Stein pull and keep your feet low.
Carl Pluim connecting the ice from the Frigid Cupcake mixed variation, Jan. 15, 2012.
[Hide Photo] Carl Pluim connecting the ice from the Frigid Cupcake mixed variation, Jan. 15, 2012.
Climbers on Cupcake Corner.
[Hide Photo] Climbers on Cupcake Corner.
Nearing the crux before heading up and left to the ice.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the crux before heading up and left to the ice.
A good perspective with the fang forming up on Feb. 2011.
[Hide Photo] A good perspective with the fang forming up on Feb. 2011.
Getting on the ice
[Hide Photo] Getting on the ice
Opening moves. Photo by Sabrina.
[Hide Photo] Opening moves. Photo by Sabrina.
Start here.
[Hide Photo] Start here.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Daniel Battin
Green Mtn. Falls, CO
[Hide Comment] This route is a good one for scraping the points around first thing in the morning. It is still getting a little cleaning though.
Thanks again Dave Dec 14, 2007
Taylor-B.
Valdez, AK
[Hide Comment] As of 2011, this thing is still exfoliating BIG chunks of rock. The nice thing though is every time you climb it, it is like climbing a new route. Jan 14, 2011
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  WI4 M5
[Hide Comment] Good holds for clipping the 6th bolt, but the best one is a loose toaster. Pull down, not out, and make sure your belayer is awake! Mar 2, 2011
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  WI4 M5
[Hide Comment] A HUGE piece of the lower roof fell out sometime in the last 2 weeks. The crux at the 2nd bolt is different but not much harder. Jan 8, 2012
Jason Brown
Carbondale, CO
[Hide Comment] You can climb most of it with your hands till the ice. Feb 11, 2017
Karl Henize
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] The traverse before you get the ice can feel a bit awkward, when there isn't much ice, and the last bolt prior to the traverse is well below your feet. I would consider the traverse PG-13. The neighboring route, Dolly Madison is a little bit harder but is safer to lead. Nov 24, 2020
Rob Griz
Frisco
  WI3+ M5
[Hide Comment] 2022: Climb Tech hook anchors added, courtesy of the ASCA, consider donating safeclimbing.org/donate. Jan 12, 2022