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Routes in Eastpost Spire

Direct Southeast Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Northwest Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: M. Sherrick and party, 1955
Page Views: 1,576 total, 13/month
Shared By: Meredith DB on Dec 8, 2007
Admins: Kate Lynn

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5 Opinions

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This route is the right (east) skyline of Eastpost Spire when viewed from the Kain hut. The route makes a good introduction to Bugaboo climbs or something to do when the weather is not great, because it is short and requires no glacier travel for the approach.

From the hut, hike down the trail (as if going to the parking lot) to the point where the trail crosses the main creek. Before dropping down into the switchbacks, cross the meadows and head for the ridge.

There are many ways to get to the ridgeline, none of which are particularly difficult. After reaching the ridge, head up along the ridge crest to the summit. There are short 5th class "steps" along the ridge that are the crux of the climb. These can be avoided on the right (north) if you want an easier climb.

Descend the Northwest Ridge for a fun traverse of Eastpost.


This route is the right (east) skyline of Eastpost Spire when viewed from the Kain hut.

See above for more details.


A few nuts and a couple cams should be plenty. The technical climbing is rarely more than 30 feet per "pitch".
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Except for the "kind of POS" comment, I'd agree with Hans. "Don't plan you trip around it, but a nice way to kill a few on the rainy day that suddenly clears off at noon. Hell, the view of the Howsers through Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col is worth the trip alone. Jan 26, 2017
Squamish, BC
Hans   Squamish, BC
On a rainy rest day we got a break in the weather and so my partner and I climbed this route, mostly for something to do.

So first I have to say that it's kind of a POS compared to all the other routes in the Bugaboos, but we had a good time and so that's why I give it 3 stars. There's some loose rock, and not much in the way of climbing, but it's gets you to the top of the spire. And then you can go down a different way which is always nice. Plus you end up at the little lake where you can go for a "refreshing" swim.

We did not follow the description above, which matches that of the guidebook. Instead we traversed directly over to the ridge from Applebee camp and followed what seemed to be the best way to the summit, which took perhaps an hour or maybe an hour and a half. We brought a half rope and a few pieces of gear which we used in two places. I imagine most people would not need it. Any difficulties were short, and not really very difficult. Somewhat like VB- boulder problems.

The last little bit to the summit had some good exposure but the rock was really good for a change.

Don't plan your trip around it, but if you are bored and want to kill a couple of hours ..... Jan 23, 2015