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Routes in The Crown

Castle Wall T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 44 total, 0/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Dec 8, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

2 bolts provide a top-rope anchor for the left side of the slab. To reach these bolts though, one must lead up the crack/corner to the left. The climbing isn't hard, maybe 5.7, but the rock quality is definitely suspect. There are a number of thin cracks which will take nuts and small cams, but test them out carefully, as some appear fragile.

Once the anchor is reached, top-roping the slab is quite enjoyable. The divots provide interesting hand/foot holds, and there are even some deep huecos scattered about on the route.

Supposedly, one can finish up to the top, but it looks sketchy. The one account I've found (see http://vcrux.com/penablancathegarden.aspx) describes it as "adventure climbing".

Location

Left side of the prominent slab.

Protection

Small cams or nuts can protect the climb to reach the anchors. the anchors are two solid looking 3/8" bolts. One of them has a locking carabiner (that no longer can be unlocked) attached to it.

Photos

Eugene Staley
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Eugene Staley   Albuquerque, New Mexico
I looked up a description I have of this route, and you are right the line does go past the slab and the book does reference it as adventure climbing.
the listing in the book is 5.9R 55 feet 2 pitches, the first is a runnout to the chains, and the second is the adventure climbing. I have not climbed this myself, if/when I do I will post any relevant information I gain from the climb.

oh also here is a good image that I'm not sure if it is linked here.
mountainproject.com/v/10607…
but there it is the book I have shows another variation to the second pitch which just reinforces the "adventure climbing" Jan 17, 2013